Todays stage takes the Tour through one of the best regions in the world for affordable Chardonnay as it starts out from the town of Tournus, just north of Macon, and heads for its first taste of the mountains at Station Des Rousses, both towns being first time hosts to the Tour. The route starts out pretty flat, heading east over the Plaine de Bresse and then begins to climb up into the Monts de Jura encountering a few category 2 climbs to gear up the pack for the bigger stuff tomorrow. As well as passing not far from villages such a St. Veran, Macon, and Pouilly Fuisse, the Tour also skirts the region known for the best chickens in the world around the village of Bourg-en-Bresse. The Poulet de Bresse chickens are so good that, like wine and cheeses, they have their own Appellation Controllee and were the first livestock to get the honor in 1957. The breed of chicken, what they can eat, the local soil and conditions, and the size of the farms all play a role in their superb quality and is strictly controlled.
As for wine, this is Chardonnay country, and a source of some of my absolutely favorite everyday, versatile white wines. While much of the soil and sub-soils are similar to those in the Cote D'Or, here the geology is more jumbled and fractured, creating multiple exposures rather than the fairly neat north/south slopes found there. The climate is a little different too as it is further to the south, with all these factors combining to give the region its own unique characteristics. Compare the wines from the Macon with a Chablis from the cool climate and kimmerdgian soils of the north (or a $21 per kilo chicken from Bresse vs your local grocery store yellow dye special for that matter!) and you begin to see the natural role terroir has in determining the style and quality of what we eat and drink. Sure, wine making, processing and farming techniques can dilute or override the nuances of terroir, but to me the best wines in the world, whether a $16 Macon, or $200+ Grand Cru White Burgundy, are those that are a pure, natural experession of the vineyards, places, and grapes where they were raised.
In the Macon, the wines can range from a moderately crisp and fresh style of Chardonnay, with some minerality and apple fruit tones, to mid weight versions with a little more creaminess and what I always describe as a corn silk buttery note, with both of these styles seeing little or no oak. There are also some riper versions with a bit more heft, oak and sometimes even a whiff of a sweet clover honey, and there are a few producers who make wines from their best sites in Pouilly Fuisse that can give many a good Village or Premier Cru from the Cote D'Or a run for the money. Overall however, this region is about good solid wines at very fair prices. So today, roast or grill some chicken and some veggies, open up a bottle of wine from the Macon and enjoy the race! Here are a few of my favorites - to purchase any of the following wines click here to go to 56 Degree Wine Online and search on the producer.
2009 Domaine Daniel Pollier Saint Veran "En Messie" $16.50 - Dedication to the vine is priority one at the venerable, Domaine Daniel Pollier, and it is the mantra of the winery's namesake. Daniel left the Cooperative de Fuisse some dozen years ago to follow his longing to make wines of true varietal character that are site specific reflections of their soils. In addition, they had to be affordable. That trifecta is accomplished to great heights with the release of his gorgeous St. Veran "En Messie", a beautiful white from a superb single vineyard. Like taking a big bite out of a fresh picked apple from the orchard, the St. Veran en Messie delivers in every way. Mild creamy apply notes meld with hints of citrus flowing acidity and flowery aromas. A kiss of oak is so well woven into the wine making it harmonious and wonderfully crisp. This is great St. Veran!
Region: Saint Veran (Burgundy), France
Grape: 100% Chardonnay
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Anything chardonnay goes with!
ABV: 13%
2007 Domaine Daniel Pollier Pouilly Fuisse Vielles Vignes $22 - A fantastic value from Pouilly Fuisse, the Pollier version has the benefit of old vine material on its side. That is the reason that the wine possesses such lively, plump fruit with excellent concentration but also lively acid balance. As a result, the wine never feels heavy, but rather lush and refreshing. Plump mango, citrus oil, minerals and lemon creme notes fill out this beautiful wine with very good length. An outstanding value White Burgundy for sure...
Region: Pouilly Fuisse (Burgundy,) France
Grape: Chardonnay
Drink: Now - 2014
2008 Domaine Sainte Barbe Macon "L'Expression du Chardonnay" $19.50- ORGANIC / BIODYNAMIC -Certified organic and biodynamic viticulture in action, this small estate not only makes delicious whites from their vines in the Macon, but they also supply fruit to some of the best producers in the appellation. The use of older (2 year) oak and minimal lees stirring make the wine crisp and focused. Solid apple tones with hints of honeydew and texturally appealing, this is a wonderful Chardonnay for an equally wonderful price.
Region: Macon (Burgundy,) France
Grape: 100% Chardonnay
Farming: Certified Organic & Boidynamic
Terroir: Plateau of clay & limestone
Vinification: Aged on the lees, 8 months in stainless steel tanks
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Appetizers, seafood, fish terrines, white meats & chicken salad
2008 Philippe Forest-Auvigue Macon - Solutre-Pouilly "Cuvee Elevee en Futs" $23 - This wine is 100% Chardonnay from vineyard in the Maconnais, the southernmost part of the Burgundy region. Warmer than Chabils, with a different mix of soils including limestone and marl, it has a creamier, warmer fruit character, balance and with nice acidity ases like it comes from a warmer climate. Using a combination of stainless steel vinification and large oak casks for 3 months, this tiny producers accomplishes the goal of fruit intensity, while never allowing the wood to dominate the wine. Voluptuous in nature, this textured white from the tiny subzone of Solutre-Pouilly shows pear fruit, smoky notes and a bit of juicy apple in the finish. A fine White Burgundy to enjoy now through 2011.
Region: Burgundy
Grape: Chardonnay
Vinification: Stainless Stell Fermentation and 3 months in large oak casks
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Rich Fish Dishes, Poultry
ABV: 13%
2007 Jean Touzot Macon Villages $15 - This brilliant value priced White Burgundy is made out of golden fruit from 40 year old vines. Patiently barrel-fermented, this delicious white has a nose redolent of fresh apples and honeysuckle. In the mouth, the wine displays bright acid levels and beautiful pineapple and spice characters. Drink this wine from now until 2010.
Region: Burgundy
Grape: Chardonnay
Vinification: Barrel Fermented
Drink: Now
Cuisine:
ABV: 12.8%
Tomorrow - the Juar and les Alps!
In the Macon, the wines can range from a moderately crisp and fresh style of Chardonnay, with some minerality and apple fruit tones, to mid weight versions with a little more creaminess and what I always describe as a corn silk buttery note, with both of these styles seeing little or no oak. There are also some riper versions with a bit more heft, oak and sometimes even a whiff of a sweet clover honey, and there are a few producers who make wines from their best sites in Pouilly Fuisse that can give many a good Village or Premier Cru from the Cote D'Or a run for the money. Overall however, this region is about good solid wines at very fair prices. So today, roast or grill some chicken and some veggies, open up a bottle of wine from the Macon and enjoy the race! Here are a few of my favorites - to purchase any of the following wines click here to go to 56 Degree Wine Online and search on the producer.
2009 Domaine Daniel Pollier Saint Veran "En Messie" $16.50 - Dedication to the vine is priority one at the venerable, Domaine Daniel Pollier, and it is the mantra of the winery's namesake. Daniel left the Cooperative de Fuisse some dozen years ago to follow his longing to make wines of true varietal character that are site specific reflections of their soils. In addition, they had to be affordable. That trifecta is accomplished to great heights with the release of his gorgeous St. Veran "En Messie", a beautiful white from a superb single vineyard. Like taking a big bite out of a fresh picked apple from the orchard, the St. Veran en Messie delivers in every way. Mild creamy apply notes meld with hints of citrus flowing acidity and flowery aromas. A kiss of oak is so well woven into the wine making it harmonious and wonderfully crisp. This is great St. Veran!
Region: Saint Veran (Burgundy), France
Grape: 100% Chardonnay
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Anything chardonnay goes with!
ABV: 13%
Region: Pouilly Fuisse (Burgundy,) France
Grape: Chardonnay
Drink: Now - 2014
2008 Domaine Sainte Barbe Macon "L'Expression du Chardonnay" $19.50- ORGANIC / BIODYNAMIC -Certified organic and biodynamic viticulture in action, this small estate not only makes delicious whites from their vines in the Macon, but they also supply fruit to some of the best producers in the appellation. The use of older (2 year) oak and minimal lees stirring make the wine crisp and focused. Solid apple tones with hints of honeydew and texturally appealing, this is a wonderful Chardonnay for an equally wonderful price.
Region: Macon (Burgundy,) France
Grape: 100% Chardonnay
Farming: Certified Organic & Boidynamic
Terroir: Plateau of clay & limestone
Vinification: Aged on the lees, 8 months in stainless steel tanks
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Appetizers, seafood, fish terrines, white meats & chicken salad
2008 Philippe Forest-Auvigue Macon - Solutre-Pouilly "Cuvee Elevee en Futs" $23 - This wine is 100% Chardonnay from vineyard in the Maconnais, the southernmost part of the Burgundy region. Warmer than Chabils, with a different mix of soils including limestone and marl, it has a creamier, warmer fruit character, balance and with nice acidity ases like it comes from a warmer climate. Using a combination of stainless steel vinification and large oak casks for 3 months, this tiny producers accomplishes the goal of fruit intensity, while never allowing the wood to dominate the wine. Voluptuous in nature, this textured white from the tiny subzone of Solutre-Pouilly shows pear fruit, smoky notes and a bit of juicy apple in the finish. A fine White Burgundy to enjoy now through 2011.
Region: Burgundy
Grape: Chardonnay
Vinification: Stainless Stell Fermentation and 3 months in large oak casks
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Rich Fish Dishes, Poultry
ABV: 13%
2007 Jean Touzot Macon Villages $15 - This brilliant value priced White Burgundy is made out of golden fruit from 40 year old vines. Patiently barrel-fermented, this delicious white has a nose redolent of fresh apples and honeysuckle. In the mouth, the wine displays bright acid levels and beautiful pineapple and spice characters. Drink this wine from now until 2010.
Region: Burgundy
Grape: Chardonnay
Vinification: Barrel Fermented
Drink: Now
Cuisine:
ABV: 12.8%
Tomorrow - the Juar and les Alps!
No comments:
Post a Comment