Weingut Carl Schmitt-Wagner: Transported in Time

The 1937 Schmitt Wagner - Photo by John Osborne

In June of 2000 I spent an incredible week in Germany with importer, wine guru, and German wine evangelist Terry Theise. For those who don't know him, he is a legend in wine circles, having almost singlehandedly built a market in the US for high quality German wines, and then, as if that wasn't challenging enough, did it again for Austrian wines and grower Champagne. No small feats, he has earned the respect and admiration of many a fellow geek, this one included. Traveling with Terry is an exceptional experience. There is his deep knowledge of his growers and their wines, his wicked sense of humor,  one might say it's punishing, and his unfiltered opinions to keep you occupied while your gums recover from tasting the hundreds of high acid, youthful wines you taste on the trip. (Sensodine toothpaste is officially recommend as a salve and must have item for your travel kit.) And then there is the fact that the growers open their hearts, homes and cellars when Terry comes to call. Along with the new releases from the previous year, we tasted countless old vintages, many times blind, in an exercise that pretty much humbled us every day. We'd guess "old, perhaps 1985?" only to have the wine revealed and find we missed the mark by a mere 10 or 15 years. I was already drinking the Riesling Kool-aid, having started my career in wine with a trip to Germany in 1979, but it was this trip where the age worthiness of this oft unsung grape was made crystal clear in my mind.

But in a week of great wines, no moment was more special than the tasting we had at Schmitt-Wagner. Quietly and without fanfare after a tasting of multiple wines including 1983, 1979, and 1976, Bruno Schmitt brought out a bottle of 1937 Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Auslese - one of only a handful of bottles he had left. He was seven years old  that year, and he told us how he remembered picking the grapes with his grandmother because his father had been conscripted into the German Army, and how they hid the wine during the war so the soldiers wouldn't take it. My notes began with "deep caramel color, earthy and caramelized on the nose - still with hints of orange blossom and baked apple pie. On the palate, still very much alive, with sweetly concentrated baked apple, spice....."  and then just trailed off.  All of us tasting were left in a moment of silent, thoughtful,  almost reverential reflection, lost in the aromas and flavors of the wine and the haunting images of a dark time in Germany just before the outbreak of the Second World War. What more could you say? This wine and the experience were beyond words. It was the sense of history, the passion of Herr Schmitt whose eyes had the tell-tale signs of deep emotion as he recounted the tale, and the ability of this miraculous beverage to capture a place in time and transport us back so many years ago. 

The Schmitt-Wagner winery has a long and storied history that makes the 1937 date seem like yesterday. The first mentions are in the 12th Centry as part of the Benedictine Abbey in Trier, with the actual property dating from 1714. Around 1804 when Napoleon secularized the vineyard holdings of the Church the Schmitt Wagner family bought some of the best vineyards that had been owned by the clergy at the Benedictine Convent of St. Maximin in Tier and began their Estate.

The vineyards are on two steep slopes on the Mosel River across from the village of Longuich. The Maximiner Herrenberg vineyard has a south-southwest exposure and is over 60 degrees steep. The terrain consists of a very deep weathered slate soil over Devonian slate. The Longuicher Herrenberg vineyard is above the Maximiner Herrenberg in the middle of the slope, with deep soils partially filled with Devonian slate, and it is slate that is the story here, imparting an unmistakable stony/mineral character to the wines that supports their lovey apple fruit tones and sweetness. Wine making is old school and traditional, fermentations are with all natural indigenous yeasts, and the philosophy is that the wine is made in the vineyard, not the cellar. The results are brilliant, understated, elegant wines that capture the essence of the Riesling grape and their particular terroirs. Lovely and fresh in their youth, they age in a way that belies their purity and elegance. To purchase Schmitt Wagner wines visit us at 56 Degree Wine.

For more information about Terry Theise click here (it's a great site, click on Terry's squawk box for some great reading). For a visit to the Schmitt Wagner website and more detail on this excellent producer click here. For more photos from the trip click here.  Watch the interview with Terry Theise below - video from Michael Skurnik Wines and Thames River Wine & Spirits in New London, CT !

Tour D'Italia - Tresca in Boston

Traveling again, this time for a corporate client event in Boston at an excellent Italian restaurant called Tresca located in Boston's historic North End. It is owned in part by Bruins Hockey legend Ray Bourque, and run by General Manager Massimo Tiberi, whose enthusiasm and passion for the cuisine and wine is evident from the minute you begin to work with him. A little tour of Italy was the theme, with wines from Friuli, Nebbiolo d'Alba from Piedmont, a Sangiovese/Merlot Super Tuscan blend and a Moscato D'Asti to wind things up, all paired with a menu specifically chosen to work with the wines. Great service from the staff and a little educational background about Italy, the wines, and the menu all combined to make this a fun and informative evening that, judging by the post-dinner comments, everyone enjoyed! Then again as long as the restaurant "gets it" and provides well prepared food, seamless service, and good wine, my job is a joy! Surprising how many can't execute, but Tresca did tonight. The menu and wines are below - and while everything was great, if I had to pick a favorite it was the Bolognese sauced Gnocchi with the Nebbiolo. It just barely edged out the fork tender Osso Bucco that melted in your mouth, served with creamy garlic mashed potatoes and a big, muscular Tuscan red. Looking forward to coming back here again! If you are interested in a corporate, private or non-profit wine event please feel free to contact me at 908.310.6127 or visit our web site at  Wine Experts LLC for a detailed outline of services and wine classes provided. Cheers!

~Tour Di Italia~

~Tresca Restaurant~

~Antipasti~

Choice of:

Crespelle al Forno

Crisp chive crepes stuffed with roasted wild mushrooms and

truffled fresh ricotta

Capesante Veneziane

Cider glazed native sea scallops, roasted parsnip lobster broth,

apple arugala salad

Caesar con Tartufi

Classic Romaine salad with white truffle Caesar dressing

2008 “Tocai” Friulano Bastianich-Friuli

~Pasta Course~

Gnocchi Bolognese

Traditional northern style veal and pork ragout enriched with

pancetta and tomatoes

2008 “100% Nebbiolo” Giacosa Fratelli-

Piemonte

~Piatti Principali~

Choice of:

Filetto di Manzo

Eight ounce Black Angus tenderloin finished with

Tresca’s homemade steak sauce, roasted garlic

mashed potatoes, and

grilled asparagus

Vitello Osso Bucco

Traditional style braised veal shank served roasted

garlic mashed potatoes, finished with a hearty tomato

vegetable ragu

Salmon Genovese

Slow roasted Atlantic salmon filet, served with a

shaved fennel and apple salad, roasted garlic mashed

potatoes, finished with an

apple cider reduction

2007 “Super Tuscan” 70% Sangiovese, 30%

Merlot

“Poggio Alla Badiola” Castello di Fonterutoli-

Tuscany

~Dolci~

North End Classic

Trio of Modern Pastry cannoli filled with chocolate,

ricotta, custard

2008 “Moscato D’Asti” Piazzo- Piemonte

Stage 13, July 17: Off the Beaten path to Marcillac and Gaillac

Stage 13 takes the Tour through the virtually uncharted wine regions of the southwest that include Marcillac and Gaillac. Little known here, I love these wines for their true regional identity. They can be a little rustic and old school, with grapes like Fer Servadou, Duras, and Braucol being supported sometimes by a little Cabernet Sauvignon. They are typically a little lower in alcohol, have good grippy tannins and nice acidity, without the oodles of ripe extracted plump fruit and oak that so many wines feel they need to compete for your attention. A perfect summer red and a lovely summer Rose are the vins de route today - enjoy!

2005 Domaine Rotier Gaillac "Les Gravels" - Rustic, real French countywine from the best producer in the appellation, this delicious blend of Cabernet Sauivgnon, Syrah, Duras and Braucol is authentic and pure. From gravel-laden soils along the right bank of the Tarn River, this black currant, smoked meat, and spice filled offering is the perfect compliment to French Bistro fare. Order a plate of Steak Frites and pull the cork. Perfection!

Region: Southwest Franc

Grapes: Cab Sauv, Duras, syrah, Braucol

Drink: Now -2014

Cuisine: Steak Frites

ABV: 12.5%

2009 Domaine Laurens Marcillac Rose - Marcillac is certainly not an appellation that rolls off the tongue of most American wine consumers. But it is an appellation that makes wonderful country reds and when we tasted this crisp dry Rose from the Fer Servadou grape, we jumped at the opportunity to lock it up. Crisp and dry with floral tones, raspberry nuance and mouthwatering acidity. A summer sipper extraordinaire, for sure!
Region: Marcillac (Southwest), France
Grape: 100% Mansois (Fer Servadou)

Drink: Now

Wild Boar, Barrels and the Spectacular Wines of Didier Larue

The third day of our January visit dawned dark, damp and foggy (surprise!) and I bagged the walk I had promised myself late at night over Stella A's in the pub in Puligny. After our petite dejuener, the sky broke to a low, misty gauzy sun with patches of brilliant blue sky, the vineyards still with a layer of grey snow. Off to Larue in St. Aubin where we ran into Didier and some winemaker buddies butchering a freshly bagged wild boar - an awesome site, especially for those of us who slightly over indulged the night before. I have to say that any day that starts with butchering a wild boar shot in the vineyards of Burgundy that very morning is probably going to be ok, and from here it only got better. On the agenda, a visit to barrel maker Seguin Moreau's Burgundy facility for a look at how the wood gets in the wine, followed by a phenomenal tasting, lunch, and more tasting with Didier LaRue. 

More about the Barrel making will follow, but the experience with LaRue's over-achieving wines was once again a palate-opening experience. He has vineyards in St. Aubin and Puligny, but it is the wines grown in the former that command my attention. You expect brilliance from Puligny, but when St. Aubin rises to the occasion, I sit up and take note. Saint Aubin is tucked into a little valley which is apparently loaded with wild boar who are sort of like deer are to us in the suburbs of New Jersey, a pest. The valley opens up between Puligny Montrachet to the north and Chassagne to the south, and winds back to the west and south through the villages of Gamay and St. Aubin, with vineyards clinging to the fairly steep south and southeast facing hillsides.  The wines here have traditionally been seen as a bit more rustic and coarse than their more refined neighbors on the Cote, but the top wines from 1er Cru sites like Murgers Dents de Chene and En Remilly can truly be great, age worthy, complex and delicious. Not only from Larue, but from other top growers too (Colin, Lamy come to mind). Could be a string of pretty good vintages, could be that there is a market for the wines that has resulted in higher prices and allowing better viti/vini practices, but end result is that these days they are some of the best buys in white Burgundy you can find, and they seem to get better and better all the time.

A visit with Dider takes this even a step further, as not only are the current releases brilliant, but he amazes us with older wines from the cellar that are simply mind blowing. His generosity and love of sharing is only surpassed by his open attitude. He is always asking, probing, listening to what we sense and taste and think, making our visits with him not only hedonistically superb, but even more appreciated for the insight and educational side of it all. We have had the pleasure of having him visit us in the store, shared many great meals, and been able to offer some select releases of older wines with our clients. Look for great things from this producer this year and next with the lush fullish 2009's, reds look very promising, whites full and rich  and plush; and the delicious 2008 whites with their classic fruit and acids that seem to fall somewhere between the mineral and crisp 2007's and the fullish 2009's.

Wines tasted (notes are reserved until we receive them and we can taste the final product.)

Saint Aubin Les Combes  

Saint Aubin Vielles Vignes 

Saint Aubin En Montceau

Saint Aubin Les Cortons

Saint Aubin En Remilly

Saint Aubin Murgers dents des Chien 

Puligny Montrachet

Puligny Montrachet Sous Puits

Puligny Montrachet La Garenne
Puligny Montrachet Trezan

Saint Aubin Rouge

Saint Aubin Rouge Sentieres du Clou
Chassagne Boudriottes too?

And the magnificent lunch: Saint Aubin Murgers Dents de Chiene 2006 - Beautiful full bouquet, stony solid. Drinking great. Long and rich and delish! With a soup of creme of root vegetables, Boudin noir underneath, with puréed chives and drizzle of olive oil and and earthy warm sweet onion. Then reconstructed eggs en murette with bacon,  red wine sauce, escargots and caramelized onion confit - crazy presentation! Next the 2002 Murgers Dents de Chien - medium gold. Lovely aromas of clover honey, acacia, linden, corn silk and butter - silky, mature, mouth filling. Next course Sandre (mildish meaty fish) with creme du ciboulet. Red Cabbage and a smokey foamy sauce. Crisped skin, sweet sour cabbage with a hint of vinegar, chive, and a mousse of smoked garlic that sealed the deal!!! Saint Aubin Sentieres du Clou 2003 - full, lush and ripe -not burnt or over the top, just a bit chubby, perfectly suited to the braised beef cheeks, sauce reduction, and puree of pumpkin. 1999 grands Epenots Michel Gaunaux - good but not great, a bit muddled and murky. Cheese course was a creme d'Epiosses, a rich and frothy mousse on top like good cappuccino, cheesier and thicker deeper down, and a hint of truffle, all bubbling away in a little ceramic pot, with a crusty bread spread with, you guessed it, MORE Epoisses. How did they make this decadent cheese this much more so! Dip the bread and die and go to heaven!!! And when you get to the bottom and you haven't had a coronary, there is a crispy sweet graham-like spice and sweet bread crumb, saturated in Epoisses, to revive you. And finally, Sabayon gratin poached pear in wine - good, but would love to do this with apple! Great traditional Burgundian fare, with a little modern twist. And later, on day five at dinner, the lovely 1992 Blagny 1er Cru Sous les Puits - sweet leather and spice. Amazingly fresh acidity, detailed and lacy, forest floor and autumn leaves, with dried cherry and asian spice. Great wine from an unsung vintage (but it was my wedding year!) Beautiful - Merci Didier!

Our Commercials

Check out our old commercials! Filmed in late 2004 or early 2005 from what I remember, not long after we opened. Pretty funny how (at least on my computer) my mouth isn't synched with the sound, and maybe I look just a tad younger! But the concept's still the same - great small grower wines, stored in perfect conditions, each wine tasted and approved, and the "know-how" to match our clients with wines they will love!

Tour de France - Languedoc to Barcelona!

Lance Armstrong in the Yellow Jersey? Not quite, but only by a nano-second after a great team time trial on Tuesday and a bit of heads up riding the day before by the wiley veteran. Today the Tour continues its swing south through the Languedoc - Rousillon towards Perpignan on Wednesday, dips a toe into Spain and travels through Cataluna Thursday, and heads north on Friday to Andorra and into the mountain stages of the Pyrenees over the weekend. While it has been a bit more exciting than anticipated in these opening stages, the race will most likely be determined by who survives the mountains, and the first of these challenges begins Friday as the tour enters the Pyrenees. It also passes through some lesser known regions with some excellent wines - so follow along! A selection of these wines will be open to taste all day Saturday and Sunday July 10th and 11th while the shop is open. For additional information or to order, please feel free to call us at 908.953.0900, email us at info@56degreewine.com or visit us online at 56 Degree Wine.

Languedoc: Banyuls et Coulliere and Coume del Mas

Coume de Mas is located in the southwest of France, not far north of the border with Spain, where the Pyrenees Orientale meet the sparkling Mediterranean sea. Here, steep terraced vineyards of mainly Schist soils bask in the warm southern French sunshine, moderated with mountain air to cool the vineyards. The winery was founded in 2000 by Philippe Gard and his family, who have now put together an estate of about 12 hectares with many parcels of old vines. The steep vineyards have to be worked by hand, a few can be plowed by horse, and the vines are tended organically wherever possible. The vines are literally growing in rock here, struggling for every ounce of essence they can extract to create concentrated, lovely wines. The dry wines are made under the Appellation of Collioure, the sweet wines are appellation Banyuls. To learn more and to see more photos visit the Coume del Mas Website and Blog by clicking here.

Coume del Mas "Schistes" 2006, Collioures - Deep, dark saturated, with spice, black fruits, from 30 Parcels of old vine, 100% Grenache Noir. Hand-sorted, de-stemmed and fermented in stainless steel for about 5 weeks, pressed and then 8-9 months back in tank before bottling. Dark, spicy and deep, with mineral tones from the schist soils, hearty and solid. Lamb and grilled meats come to mind - burgers on the grill wouldn't be out of place here either!! About $32 per bottle.

Coume del Mas Banyuls Galateao 2005 - Deep and dark and saturated with lovely black fruits and sweet plum with a hint of rasiny ripeness. Though it is fortified, it is not as liquorish as a Port, more wine-like and balanced, with lower alcohol, it works with many of the same foods - it's especially good with chocolate! About $40 per 500ml.

Cataluna: Gramona Cava

Gramona Gran Cuvee Cava 2006 - Cava is a traditional sparkling wine made in Cataluna, not far from Barcelona. It's a blend of Xarel.lo, Macebeo and Chardonnay in equal parts and fermented in the traditional method in the bottle. While some of the mass produced brands can sometime be dull and uninspired, there are a number of small growers making lovely, fresh and exciting Cava, Gramona being one of our favorites. Crisp and fine, with lovely small bubbles, fresh and lively on the palate. Great aperitif or with all kinds of seafood, shellfish and appetizers. About $19.50 bottle.

The Pyranees - Madiran

The tour leaves Catluna, goes through Andorra and then into the Basque Country of the western Pyrenees. The region of Madiran has made wine since Roman times, with wine making becoming even more important with the arrival of Benedictine Monks from Cluny who built an Abbey in the 11th century. It is known for gutsy, rustic country reds made from Tannat, blended with Cabernet Franc (locally called Bouchy) and Cabernet Sauvignon , which as the joke goes, is blended in to "soften the Tannat".

Chateau Laffitte-Teston "Reflets du Terroir" Madiran - French country wine at its finest, this rugged blend of 80% Tannat, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc is full of fragrant aromatics and solidly structured fruit. Leather and mixed berries with meaty notes of and spices, coolish and firm, with solid mouth filling tannins. Classic bistro wine for classic bistro fare, enjoy this now and over the next four years. Just add steak or lamb chops on the grill, a tossed green salad, and frites - presto! You're in France! About $18.50.


Monday is a rest day - they'll need it after the Pyrenees - then on to the Loire Valley, Chablis and Alsace! Don't forget to watch the action live on Versus!

Tour de France - Stage Four

Tour de France – Stage 4,
Wednesday July 7, 2009 – Montpelier, Languedoc-Rousillon

Today’s stage from Marseilles to Le Grand Motte, through beautiful Provencal countryside and the villages of Les Baux de Provence and Arles, proved to be much more exciting than anticipated. Windy conditions and smart riding allowed a small group of attentive riders, including none other than seven time winner Lance Armstrong, to join a move by the Columbia team on a sharp turn and ride away from the pack to finish 39 seconds ahead of the next group. With this, the tour leaves Provence (not to return until the killer stage up the infamous Mont Ventoux) and swings to the south and west into the heart of the Languedoc-Rousillon. This is one of the most ancient wine regions in France, with history that begins with the Greeks in the 5th Century BC, continuing with the Romans next, and nearly unabated since.

The hot, dry, sunny Mediterranean climate makes it easy to grow grapes, but it has a mixed history as far as quality goes. Its ease of growing grapes encouraged mass production of wines of lesser quality to be made, and much of the region became sadly known as the home of oceans of plonk. In the last 20-30 years, the shift has been away from the wines of the past with a drive towards higher quality, a change that has not been without some fairly significant social upheaval, but the result has been a bigger focus on quality over quantity.

Wines from this region are mainly grown from heat loving southern Rhone varieties, the major red wine grapes including Grenache Noir, Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, with seemingly omnipresent Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot making the scene too. Whites include Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Chardonnay, Chenin, Mauzac and Clairette Blanche. The main reputation here however is for hearty full-bodied reds that range from rustic and traditional to slightly more modern in their approach. The following are just a couple of suggestions, although there many many fine AOC’s and VDP’s to choose from. The Granges des Pere is one of the greatest in the region, a “neo-Classic” if you will, with a cult following the world over. The next two “Cellar Defenders™ are indicative of all of the improvement in quality the region has seen, creating a wealth of wines that are delicious and affordable without giving up the soul and character of their terroir.

To quote Joe Bembry: “Domaine de la Grange des Peres is famous. - famous for being clearly the best Domaine in the Languedoc-Rousillon? Yes, it’s unquestionable. But also fame comes in the form of the Laurent Vaille, the former physiotherapist turned wine wizard. His tutelage under Gerard Chave and Francois Coche-Dury gave him the tools to become the legendary figure he has now become. Starting in 1992, this winery has gone from “on the map” to “off the charts”, wowing not only the wine press, but all who taste the wines. They are that spectacular…Just last week, the wine press bestowed them with their highest scores yet for the 2005 vintage. But as you know, you can’t drink a score. And because we were able to secure the wine before the rating, we are able to offer these rare, wonderful wines in both 750ml bottles and 1.5L magnums.

2005 Domaine de la Granges des Peres – Granges des Peres – A big rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvedre that defies logic with a balancing act of jammy dark berry fruit and savage, meaty, gamy…at the same time. A wine that will age magnificently in a cool cellar, but is truly hard to resist right now. Available in both 750ml and also a few extremely rare magnums. $94/bottle – buy 6 bottles or more pay only $79.50, MAGNUMS - $185 net. *Wine arrives Thursday July 9th.

2005 Domaine Salitis Cabardes Cuvee Premium - Surprisingly regal effort for a wine from the not-so-sexy appellation of Cabardes, this deft blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah & Grenache is really beautifully made. Rustic edges accent the supple flavors laced with red fruits, raspberry, pepper, game and solid length; this is made for red meat with a sturdy framework of tannins and wealth of fruit. Fire up the grill! $18 - $16.20 by the mixed case.

2007 Domaine Sallies Marselan Vin de Pays, Languedoc - Reminiscent of a Cru Beaujolais with a bit more structure, this offering based on the Marselan grape has uncommon origin. A crossing between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, the Sallies has pretty blue fruit tones, plums, minerals and fine tannins. Tasty stuff for chops and big enough for roasts, enjoy this now and over the next year or so to enjoy all the lively fruit. $13

For more information or to purchase these wines visit us online at 56 Degree Wine or call 908.953.0900

Stage Five – Thursday July 8th - Le Cap d'Agde - Perpignan - Watch it on Versus Channel or online at Le Tour De France

Le Tour de France Commencer! - Provence and the Côte d’Azur

Every year for the last few years I have gone through the moral dilemma of whether or not I am going to watch the Tour de France, and every year I get sucked back in. Like all major sports these days, it has its problems - but there is something about the technicolor Peloton juxtaposed with the classic French scenery whizzing by, the crazy fans, grueling climbs and life endangering descents that truly make this one of the greatest sporting events in the world. Pastoral farms and picturesque villages contrast with dizzying shots of the Pyrenees and the Alps as helicopters and motorcycles cover the race with vertiginous camera angles. The race is one big love affair with the French countryside; eachday as unique and different as the Alps are to the Loire Valley. Add to the normal pre-race buzz the return of record seven time winner American Lance Armstrong, and the stage is set for an exciting Tour. I'm in!

This year it begins in Monaco on July 4th, then to the South of France and Provence, Languedoc, a quick jaunt in and out of Spain and into the Pyrenees for the first of the big climbs. Then up through the Center of France, pastoral plains, fields of grain, through the vineyards of the Loire Valley, Chablis and to Alsace. On to the east of France, back into the high mountains and the Alps, a stint in Switzerland, through the Val d'Aosta in Italy, back to France, more mountains, and into the Haut Savoie, with an hors category final climb of menacing Mont Ventoux before the last day in Paris. Twenty three days, twenty one stages, over 3,500 kilometers.

The whole spectacle reminds me of everything I love about France, how each region is beautiful and unique in its climate, geology, and topography, and how the French love and respect of the land is inextricably interwoven with their traditions and incredible cuisine and wines.

This year I am going to follow the tour vicariously, highlighting each region with a couple wines from upcoming stages so you can travel along the route and live and experience some of the flavors of the regions as you watch the race unfold. Stay tuned!

Stages 1-3: Monaco, Cote D'Azur and Provence

Stage one of the Tour begins rather tamely in the Principality of Monaco on the sparkling Mediterranean. A city better known for Formula One, Grace Kelly and Casinos than wine, it should be a dramatic and glamorous backdrop for the start of the race. Stage 2 (187 kilometers) meanders through the Cote D'Azur, beautiful scenery, and while not well known, there are some very interesting local wines. Stage 3 (196.5 kilometers) entering Provence - land of lavender, sun, and wine. To celebrate the commencer du Tour, the wines of Chateau Pibarnon perfectly capture the soul and character of Provence and the south of France where they are grown and made.

Chateau du Pibarnon is located in Bandol just east of Marseilles where stage three begins. The property is high above the sea, an absolutely gorgeously rugged, rocky amphitheater of vineyard that owner Henri de Saint Victoire purchased in 1975 after visiting and falling in love with it at first sight (and taste). I visited the property back in 1999 and still joke that if I didn't have another appointment later that day I might still be there! I arrived with pal Robin Kelly O'Connor and got the full tour of cellars and vineyards - and then to a private vertical tasting of 10 or so vintages of the red and several of the Rosé, which amazingly ages well.

The 2007 Bandol Blanc is a blend of Clairette (40%), Bourboulenc (20%), with Marsanne, Roussanne and Petit Manseng making the balance. It is fresh and lively with good weight and a mixture of white flowers and hints of peach and apricots. Bouillabaisse, meaty white fish, or all on its own on a lazy summer afternoon! $30/$27 by the mixed case.

The 2008 Bandol Rosé is 50% Mourvèdre and 50% Cinsault - with a lovely coral/salmon hue - hints of raspberry and strawberry and flowers on the nose. On the palate it is refreshing, but also has a bit more complexity than your typical quaffing pink - without being heavy of weighty at all it has lively, layered flavors - perfect with grilled Tuna, Salad nicoise, all kinds of olives, saucisson, grilled vegetables and appetizers too! $26/$23.40 by the mixed case

The 2005 Bandol Rouge is mainly Mourvèdre, which thrives here in the high hills, rocky soils and Mediterranean climate. It is deep and dark, brooding, with earth tones, black cherry,and spices, dense, yet with balance, power and elegance at the same time. Perfect with lamb, game, roasted and grilled meats of all kinds. Accessible now, it will age an improve through 2015 plus! $48/$43.20 by the mixed case.

To buy the wines, visit the shop at 56 Degree Wine, to get updates follow me on Twitter. And don't forget to follow along on Versus television and online at Le Tour de France!

Next Stages 4-5: South from Provence to the Languedoc-Rousillon

Drink Well - Spend Less - Part One: "Off Vintages"

In the current economy, the question of the day seems to be how we can spend less and still not give up too many of the good things in life. The good news is that when it comes to wine, there is hope! At 56 Degrees we spend far more time looking for great value wines than we do on the cellar-able classics, in part because they are harder to find, but also because it's a little more work and more time consuming. We taste thousands of wines every year and only select those we feel provide great value and quality, regardless of price or scores, vintage or producer, grape or region. This is part one of a series of short thoughts on how you can drink well and spend less. It's a little more work, but if you stick with us we've done most the the ground work already!  Enjoy!

Rule # One - Don't be afraid of "off" vintages: With better wine making, better weather forecasting and maybe a hint of climate change in the air, it seems that there are not all that many disastrous vintages these days. Yet entire vintages and regions tend to get written off by the press and consumer at large, when in most cases a shade of grey is more likely the story rather than "good" or "bad". I can't really blame people for avoiding wines from vintages deemed less good. It's complicated, and you really do have look for the quality in some years, sometimes only finding one wine from a grower that really sings. "Ze hail, she meesse zis vineyard!". Seriously though, I have found that good growers tend to make good wine even in lesser and more challenging vintages, and often sell them for substantially less. If you persevere, get good advice, and close your ears to the nay sayers, you can find wines that have a lot of the similar characteristics of the more expensive vintages, and that can be more accessible and perfect to drink while you wait for the big boys to mature.

The only reason I picked this topic first is because of the fantastic wine dinner we held last evening at Sette Cucina in Bernardsville where we tasted the 2003 vintage of Collemattoni Brunello (as well as the 2004 and 1998 Riserva). While 2004 is world class and without doubt the "better" wine, it's a baby, quite young and tight, and in need of about 10-20 years before it truly stretches its legs and shows what it really as to offer. The 1998 Riserva, a "difficult" vintage, was stunning too, but alas it's not available, and was there to illustrate what these younger wines will become with time. (It was great!)

That brings us to the 2003, not generally my favorite vintage, a tough year with the heat and drought conditions leaving many wines with a dried, scorched, even sunburned over ripeness that can make them seem heavy and a bit blowzy and disjointed, but again the idea of this article is looking for value in lesser years! The 2003 Collemattoni has none of that - while it is a bit more precocious and ripe, (an attribute that manifests itself in this wine in a supple, mouth-coating plushness that makes it more accessible at this young stage), it still has lovely freshness, superb dense, dark, earthy fruit, all wrapped good solid tannins and not a hint of over ripeness or cooked character. It is a wine that after decanting for an hour or so really starts to shine, but will age and improve for 5-15 years developing more secondary aromas, flavors and complexity. It was perfect with the grilled baby lamb chops, perfectly pink, seasoned and succulent, bravo Chef Russo! 

But what really makes this 2003 stand out is the price, severely reduced in part because it's living in the shadow of 2001 and 2004 (with people are holding out for the world class 2004's), but also in part due to the economy. The result is a win/win for our customers. A lovely, classic Brunello, ready to drink now and over the next 5-10 years (while you wait for your 2004's to mature) that is under $45 per bottle (regular price over $60!) and an amazing $39.50 by the case! Click on the following link to go to our website and purchase, but don't wait - it won't last long at this price! 56 Degree Wine.

About Collemattoni: 

Region:  The winery is located on the south side of Montalcino, close to the tiny village of Sant' Angelo in Colle. They own seven hectares in all, divided into four parts. Sesta, Fontelontano (for Riserva), Cava and Collemattoni which is the oldest is where the winery is located.

Grape(s): 100% Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello)

Density of plants: 4500 plants/ha.

Altitude: 350/400 m above the sea level.

Soil: sandy clay with fossils and marl. 

Vinification: de-temmed, soft pressing, fermentation in stainless steel casks at the controlled temperature of 28-30° C, maceration on the skins for 20-25 days with extracting technique made with delestage (one a week) and pumping over. 

Method of aging: it ages for a minimum of 30 months in Slavonian oak barrels of 32 Hl. Then other 4 months in the bottle.

Aging potential: 10-20 years according to vintage.

Next in the series: Second labels

Wine Experts Web Page Now Up - Click here to visit!

Wine Experts, LLC was created by Master of Wine Christopher Cree in 1999 to offer a wide range of educational and entertaining wine programs for corporate clients, meeting planners, charitable organizations and private clients. Whether the goal is education, entertainment, reward or incentive programs, client development, or fund raising, our events provide a perfect venue for our clients to connect with their key customers, employees, suppliers or supporters. The casual and relaxed wine tasting environment also offers our clients a great setting to strengthen and build relationships and deliver their message in a relaxed, enjoyable environment.

We employ numerous different formats including food and wine pairing dinners, formal class room style seminars, casual “walk around” reception style tastings, and travel to wine regions. Seminars can be conducted either at your location or at a number of off-site venues such as hotels, conference centers, restaurants, and wine regions virtually anywhere in the world.
Our team of wine professionals is headed up by Chris Cree M.W., one of only 29 Americans to have earned the prestigious Master of Wine degree, and all of our speakers are vetted and certified to have substantial wine knowledge. But more importantly, they must have the personality and communication skills to deliver in an intelligent, sensible, down to earth manner that makes our events not only educational, but enjoyable and entertaining as well. As Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher of The Wall Street Journal quipped when referring to Chris: “Real wine experts aren’t snooty…they’re simply passionate about wine. You’d enjoy sharing a bottle with them.”

Our services include:

· Event location and planning
· Consulting with and or contracting caterers, restaurant staff and travel arrangements.
· Wine and menu selection.


Our event menu offers a number of themed tasting and class ideas. Most can be set in several formats depending on our clients’ goals and preferences and can be customized to suit specific individual requests.

Event Formats

Our classes are designed to be informative and enjoyable, delivering information to a professional level audience in an entertaining manner. They can be presented at an introductory through to an advanced level of knowledge. Most classes can be conducted as a stand-alone one time class or in a series. They can be customized to be either more formal or educational, or geared towards providing a more social networking type environment.

Classroom style: Wines tasted in seminar format, guests seated for comparative tasting and talk. Power point presentations are often used to enhance experience. This format can be coupled with a dinner and/or a reception for more complete experience.

Wine Dinner: Guests are treated to a themed wine pairing menu specifically selected by our team and a catering or restaurant partner, and we have worked with some of the best Chefs and Restaurants in the country. Typically a brief aperitif and reception with passed appetizers followed by multiple course dinner, with introductory welcome talk about the wines and menu and running commentary throughout the event.

Reception: “Cocktail hour” format with a wide range of wines typically served at stations. Great food pairing opportunities from passed appetizers to full food stations or both. Generally a short welcome and talk at some point early during the event.

Fees

Wine Experts works with a wide range of highly qualified speakers and wine educators, and speakers’ fees vary with qualification of speaker, type of event, planning, travel and other expenses. While Wine Experts LLC does not sell wine or food directly, our services include developing a budget, location, menus, wine and all aspects of your event, and events can be individually customized to suit a wide range of objectives and budgets.

Seminar Summaries

The Fundamentals of Fine Wine; Grapes, Terroir and Wine making: An introductory course that looks at the how and why behind wine styles. It examines the underlying factors that determine a wine’s style, price and flavor profile by examining the grape varieties, terroir and wine making techniques employed, literally from the ground up.

Old World/New World: A comparative tasting and seminar that focuses on similarities and differences between the European classics and new world counterparts. Tradition, terroir and technique all play a role in this fun and eye-opening seminar. This popular format delivers a lot of information in an entertaining, fast-paced, highly illustrative format.

Wines by Country: These courses focus on a single country, offering a broad look at the many different regional wine styles within a country and what makes them unique.

Wines by Region: Regional classes look more closely at the wine areas within a specific country, and offer a more in depth view into the world’s greatest wine regions. Regional courses are offered either individually, such as “The Wines of Bordeaux”, or in a series featuring a combination of all or some of the regions within a single country.

Courses by Wine Style or Grape: Examples include Rhone or Bordeaux varieties around the world, or Sparkling Wines: France vs. the World.

Real Wine: A discussion and tasting of natural, organic and Biodynamic wines. Find out why this growing trend and return to traditional methods is producing some of the greatest wines made.

To schedule and event or for more information, please contact Chris Cree at 908.310.6127 or via email at chris.cree@56degreewine.com. To read more, visit my blog at Down to Earth Wine or visit on Twitter Wine
For more information about Chris Cree click here: About Chris Cree M.W.

Dreaming of Wine in America

Mi Sueno, which means “my dream” in Spanish, is the realization of the dream and vision of Rolando Herrera. In what is a great American story, Rolando was born in a small village in Mexico, and looking for a better life, moved to California in 1975. His life in the wine trade began humbly enough as a dishwasher at Auberge du Soliel, then on to line Cook at Mustards’ Grill where he began to appreciate the magic of great food and wine. At the age of 17 he took a summer job working as a laborer building a stone wall for Warren Winiarski of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and was then offered a job working the harvest with the provision that he attend school in the afternoons. It was the beginning of a career that included 10 years at Stag’s Leap (the last seven as Cellar Master), assistant wine maker at Chateau Potelle, Winemaker at Vine Cliff and Director of Winemaking at Paul Hobbs. At each step along the way he absorbed his experiences, learning different aspects of winemaking, grape growing and marketing, developing his own vision which evolved into Mi Sueno.

“Each stop played a significant role in refining my style of winemaking. Stag’s Leap was the foundation. It was here that I learned to appreciate the smell of the grape must and the feeling of being surrounded by barrels of fermenting wine. In addition, Warren taught me the value of attention to detail as well as to respect and enjoy the product we were making. At Chateau Potelle I was introduced to French winemaking techniques, including all-natural fermentation. I also learned that while anyone can make wine, to craft a truly unique and special wine, winemaking becomes more of an art form. My tenure at Vine Cliff provided me, for the first time in my career, a chance to be in complete control of the final product.” 

Eventually Rolando’s brother Ricardo joined him, having spent 10 years developing his talents as Cellar Master at Dominus and Assistant Winemaker at Screaming Eagle. Today they have a vineyard management company, and farm 40 acres of their own vines as well with terrific vineyard sites in Napa, Carneros and the Russian River Valley.

The wines are sold to us by Juan Prieto, owner of Vinifrance Imports, and Juan’s story is just as good as the Herrera’s. His family, solid middle class Cubans, lost everything when Castro and the communists came to power, nationalized private property and took their family business. After many hardships, they were finally able to leave Cuba and made their way to America with little more than the clothes they left with. Through hard work and drive, Juan and his family got him through school with a degree in Psychology which today is where he mainly makes his living. But his love of wine and food drew him to the wine business, and he began to travel, ask questions and learn everything he could. Eventually this led him to winemaker Michael Havens, a great long time friend of mine and Napa Winemaker, who subsequently led him to me about 20 or so years ago to ask advice about getting into the wine business. After giving Juan as many reasons as I could think of for not leaving his bread and butter job to open a wine distribution company, he went ahead and did it anyway. Today he has a great portfolio of artisan growers whose style and approach to winemaking we heartily endorse, making wines we love for their purity, expression, and natural approach, and of course, for their sheer brilliant quality. But he still has his day job!

We both work with on the French supply side with importer Olivier Daubresse, who aside from introducing us to some of our favorite French producers (Pascal Maillard, Guillon, Grivot and many more) has by far the most precise palate I have ever tasted with. With what I would call total recall and utter sensitivity, he is able to discern subtle changes that often the winemakers themselves don’t pick up in their wines. Travelling with Olivier is part and parcel to what I love about this business. I have spent long days the cold cellars in France together working on blends and selecting wines to import where you can see the relationship of respect and open communication between Olivier and his growers (Olivier pulls no punches!). This trust and understanding is based on a pursuit of excellence and results in our ability to source truly great wines (and share them with our clients!). Long, grueling days in cold cellars (I know, tough job!) are rewarded with lingering lunches and dinners, often with the winemakers digging deep in their cellars for magnificent wines in a spirit of sharing, mostly tasted blind, that challenges your senses and truly makes you think about what you are tasting. Vintage, soils, grapes, terroir, winemaking; how did these flavors and nuances arrive at the place and time we are drinking them? Every great wine tells a story of the year and conditions they were grown, the grapes and the soils and climate of the vineyards where they were grown, and the winemaking and care of the winemaker. 

Olivier’s personal story begins in the north of France, in a region best known for industry and far from wine country. As he tells it, the French social structure is a somewhat stratified system where upward mobility is difficult in terms of education, employment and career advancement, with layers of tradition and bureaucracy often creating impediments. So like many, Olivier went into the service industry, in his case the wine trade as a Sommelier, where he worked his way up to Wine Director of one of the best restaurants in France. He, like Rolando, found that his spirit was yearning for a better life in a place where his entrepreneurial ambition could be more easily realized, and eventually made his way to America. With stints at Bouley and Daniel in New York, he eventually left to follow his own dream of creating a business to import the small family owned estates he loved. These stories remind me, in a time when there seems to be so much negativity and doubt, of what a great place our country really is, with possibilities that exist here and nowhere else in the world. 

So what does all this have to do with wine? Not much, really, but it does reflect a little on my approach to it in a business sense. While the quality absolutely has to be there, wine is about more than just what's in the bottle, and definitely more than reading the press, checking the scores and ratings and stocking what is popular. It's about choosing to work with people who believe in what they do, who have a passion so strong they are willing to take risks and walk a sometimes difficult path to accomplish their goals. When you surround yourself with people with these characteristics and philosophy, quality usually follows - but on to the wines!

What I love about these wines is that they are a summation of all the experience and talent from the Herrera's years learning their art, and yet they sell for a fraction of the price of the wines from the places where they learned it. In addition, while they have California exuberance, they are also restrained and elegant, balanced, plush and deliciously drinkable. All are extremely limited production and worth getting to know. 

Mi Sueno Chardonnay Carneros 2006 – The grapes for this wine are grown in the cool Carneros region, and the resulting wine is balanced, with good ripeness and lively tropical fruit, creamy vanilla and a clean finish. About 35-40% new oak keeps it in check and allows the delicious fruit to shine through. Incredible value! $39/bottle

Mi Sueno Chardonnay “Ulysses Vineyard” 2006 - The Ulysses vineyard is known for fantastic Chardonnay fruit that ends up in wine from top producers Paul Hobbs and Aubert. Here, Rolando Herrera brings his own interpretation based on his experience with the site from his time as Director of Winemaking at Paul Hobbs. Rich and full, but with restraint and only moderate oak, hints of apple, nutmeg and vanilla. Tiny production – excellent quality! $49.50/bottle

Mi Sueno Carneros Pinot Noir 2007 - This wine was first made by Mi Sueno in 2002 with purchased fruit, but discontinued it until their own vineyards were mature enough to provide the fruit. Planted on white soils with lots of lime it has lovely aromatic of red and dark cherry, lively fresh and mouth filling on the palate - California fruit (but in check), with fresh acidity underneath and a silky, smooth middle and finish. Lovely! Tiny production. $45/bottle

Mi Sueno El Llano 2006 - This is a blend of between 20-35% Syrah with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon, depending on the vintage, from vineyards near Caldwell's in the Coombsville area of Napa. Deep and dark, with cedar components and focused dark fruits both on the nose and palate. Long, solid and balanced, with just enough oak to compliment but not dominate. $45/bottle

Visit the shop online at 56 Degree Wine to check price and availability.

A Short Film Clip of Barrels, Stainless Steel, and Cement Tanks

The following is a short clip to test the video upload - just some stainless steel tanks, old cement tanks at Feytit Clinet in Pomerol, new cement tanks, wooden upright fermenters, barriques and barrels being toasted at Muga, who still toast their own. Thanks for indulging the test!

It's Spring!

Friday marked the vernal equinox, the official change of season from winter to spring, and while winter doesn't seem to want to let go, signs of change are in the air. Sunset is later, it's trying to warm up, and I've sufficiently forgotten how frustrating golf is to want to go out and flog the ball again. Food and wine is definitely a seasonal affair chais nous, and about now I begin to have a yearning for lighter, fresher foods and wines to match. In this

case we decided to mark the moment with a take out lobster dinner from our favorite fish monger, Metropolitan Seafood.

We started with Oysters Rockefeller, steamed clams with drawn butter, chilled shrimp, stuffies (as baked stuffed clams are known in Rhode Island), 4 whole lobsters, and a couple of freshly steamed Maine crabs Nick recommended to my wife. While there isn't much meat in the carapace, their sweet, large claws are reminiscent of stone crabs, and gave the lahbstahs a run for the money! Coleslaw, potato salad and warm crusty French bread filled in the rest. If you haven't done it, this is an easy, fun, one phone call dinner with no prep and easy clean up after. We'd hoped to do it outside but it was just too cold so "had at it" in the kitchen. Hot lobsters, cold salads and sides, kids having a blast and entertained for hours - how great is that? Metropolitan seafood rocks! Visit them in the shop on Old Route 22 in Clinton or online at Metropolitan Seafood, not just for lobsters but for the best selection of fresh, super high quality seafood I have found anywhere! Sign up for their emails to find out what's fresh a couple of times per week.

All this was washed down with a starter of Domaine Landrat - Guyollot Pouilly Fume La Rambarde, $22 a mineral, herbal, cool, crisp and focused wine with brilliant acidity and freshness that will make you think you are in the bistro in Hemingway's "A Movable Feast" where he impeccably describes the beauty of eating oysters. This is classic Sauvignon Blanc from one of the places that does it best! Oysters, shrimp, clams - bring'em on! 

With the Lobsters we moved on to the Domaine Pollier St. Veran "en Messie" 2007, $16.50, a truly artisanally crafted and affordable white Burgundy made by the husband and wife team of Daniel and Christine Pollier from a three acre parcel of 15 and 22 year old vines. Only about 10% new oak keeps the focus on the terroir and not the wood. Creamy but with brilliant underlying acidity and mineral undertones that keeps this fresh and exciting on the palate and carries its stony apple fruit well. Since we're not drinking as much Puligny these days, this "poor mans" version is now our "go to" everyday white Burgundy.

In the coming months, both when dining out and at home, I'll be looking for spring-themed ingredients: new potatoes, asparagus, mushrooms (morels), spring lamb, whatever seafood the lads at metro seafood tell me is fresh and delicious, ramps, sorrel, watercress, artichokes, peas, and on dishes, recipes and menus that capture the essence of spring. As far as wine goes, a shift happens here too, as if my palate senses the change of clime and seeks equilibrium and balance. Crisp cool Loire valley whites, Txakoli from the Basque region of Spain, Albarino from northern Portugal. Mid weight reds too, Cru Beaujolais, Burgundy (always!), Chinon (and I had a Sancerre Rouge that was lovely!) and a host of old-school lively, wines from Valdeorras and Galicia in Northwest Spain that will make their way to the shop and hopefully be available through the spring and summer, and of course the fresh crop of Rosè wines soon to arrive! Be sure to visit the shop, either in person or online at 56 Degree Wine.

The Perils of Poor Storage

My obsession with proper storage for wine began about 20 or so years ago when the ship "Carla", laden with wine and other cargo was essentially broken in two during a violent storm between the coast of Spain and the Azores. Half of the ship went to the bottom, and the other half, miraculously, stayed afloat and was towed to safe harbor in the Azores. Here the cargo sat, waiting to be sorted and shipped on. While in port, average temperatures were in the 70's, and most importers of wine had no reason for concern. But one of our importers had already begun shipping year round in temperature controlled containers that failed during the transfer in the Azores. When the wines arrived, he noticed a marked difference in other samples of the same wines which were shipped at 56 degrees and those from the Carla where temperatures again reached the 70's (the low range of ambient temperature of your typical distributors warehouse and local retailers wine department!). He notified his insurance agent who sad this was the only complaint they had with regards to the Carla wines, and that the wines were fine. They dispatched their own wine expert who tasted the wines and said they were in saleable condition. Weinrott contended that that "saleable" was not the only condition: his wines tasted different, with less freshness than those shipped temperature controlled, were dull and less vibrant. It was part of his commitment t his clients and a crucial element in setting his wines apart from others who were not a meticulous as he in their shipping methods.

The end result was that I was retained to do a blind comparison with Carla wines and their temperature controlled counterparts: the results were dramatic. Clearly the temperature controlled wines were fresher, brighter and considerably better - a fact that could have been over looked if not done side by side, one would have thought the Carla wines o.k. but a bit dull.

While I knew that extreme temperature swings and high heat could impact a wine permanently and immediately, the slow loss of freshness even at moderate temperatures was new to me. However it made sense. Think about lettuce or other produce: handled correctly, it stays fresher longer, leave it out of the fridge and it rapidly loses its snap, and this was what happened to the wines. As a result, we temperature controlled the entire shop: not just for the high end expensive wines, but for all the wines.

The problem became more apparent when I had some guests for dinner and we were into a bunch of wines that had spent some time in my apartment during a time when priorities demanded that all disposable income be spent on wine rather than temperature control. One after another of pretty high caliber wines were opened, only to disappoint. Moral of the story is keep it chilled!