Cassis - A Mediterranean Gem

The region of Cassis, on the sparking Mediterranean coast on the south of France, is perhaps one of the most beautiful wine regions on earth. It is a popular tourist and vacation spot (about 20 kilometers east of Marseilles), with dramatic views of the sea, the mountainous cliffs (some of the highest maritime bluffs in Europe), and the beautiful rocky coves called Calanques.

It is also known for its delicious, if little known white and rose wines, and supposedly even tinier amount of red which I have never seen. The cliffs along the coast have been maritime landmarks for centuries, and this region has been occupied since the Ligures arrived in 500-600 BC, with the Romans not far behind. Cassis is also known for its stone, its quarries producing masonry for the quays of Alexandria, Algiers, Pireaus and Marseilles, as well as for the base of the statue of Liberty.

It is a tiny wine region, with only 12 Domaines making wine from 196 hectares of grapes. In some ways its beautiful location works against grape growing due to high land values that threaten the vineyards with development, and the stunningly beautiful cliffs and rocky outcrops that offer no room for expansion. There have been efforts to enforce strict zoning to protect existing vineyards however, and it seems that for now the tiny production of the region is safe. Soils are mainly limestone, with about 75% of the production white wine and the balance rose. Grapes for white include Clairette, Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc.

At 56 Degree Wine we carry two producers: Domaine du Bagnol and Clos St Magdeleine, when we can get them that is! Not much wine is produced, and with local demand high, not much of that is exported. I look forward every year to the wines' arrivals, both the whites and especially the rose wines, whose arrival seems to herald the arrival of summer. The whites are crisp, clean, unoaked, but good body and character - perfect seafood companions! The Rose wines are dry, clean and aromatic, with slight variations from producer to producer and vintage to vintage, but are always among my favorites we stock. They are perfect with all sorts of appetizers, cured meats, grilled veggies, tapenades, salads of all kinds especially classic nicoise with seared tuna, and grilled fish like snapper or Bronzino.  There is nothing quite so great as taking a small boat along the coast, packing a picnique lunch, a few chilled bottles of Cassis Blanc and Rose, and finding one of the secluded coves with a pebbly sandy beach and spending a lazy afternoon. Another gem is La Villa Madie located at the foot of the cliff just next to Clos St. Magedeleine. To see a list of Cassis wines in stock, Click here.

2008 Clos Ste Magdeleine Cassis Blanc - ORGANIC / BIODYNAMIC - This is one of the most beautiful locations for a winery in the world, bar none! Perched on a bluff above the sparkling blue Mediterranean, they craft lovely Cassis Blanc and Rose from grapes grown in their own estate vineyards. The region is miniscule, only producing something like 40,000 cases in total, and would probably have disappeared altogether if it weren't for strict zonong that restricts further building.
Region: Cassis (Provence), France
Grapes: Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc
Farming: Certified Organic & Biodynamic
Drink: Now
Cuisine: appetizers, grilled veggies, cured meats, olives, tapenade, grilled fish or a salad nicoise.
ABV: 12.5%

2010 Clos Ste Magdeleine Cassis Rose - ORGANIC / BIODYNAMIC - the ultimate summer party wine! - This lovely, classic dry rose is from vineyards around the village of Cassis, literally a stones throw from the sparkling Mediteranean Sea.  It is made from 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault & 15% Mourvedre, all local red grape varieties with the juice and skins pressed and macerated together for just enough time for the wine to pick up its lovely salmon color.  Gathering hints of red fruits and its tinge of structure before the skins are removed, its then fermented dry much like a white wine. Great served chilled with grilled seafood or poultry, all kinds of salads (nicoise - perfect!) seared rare tuna and all on its own on a warm night. Liquid summer!
Region: Cassis (Provence), France
Grapes: 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault & 15% Mourvedre
Farming: Certified Organic & Biodynamic
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Light appetizers, poultry, seafood, salads
ABV: 12.5%

2009 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc - Comprised of 50% Marsanne, 35% Clairette and 15% Ugni Blanc, Domaine du Bagnol has fashioned a wine that is the epitome of fresh white from Provence.  The thing that separates them from the pack is the layers of flavors that unfold in the glass, making this stimulating wine on many levels.  Melons, white peach, honeydew with pears making an appearance as the wine resolves in a long finish.  Lovely cleansing acidity, a wealthy of juicy fruit and nice texture make this a perfect choice for seafood, shellfish, roasted chicken or as a great aperitif.  Ready to enjoy now so no need to wait.
Region: Cassis (Provence), France
Grapes: 50% Marsanne, 35% Clairette & 15% Ugni Blanc
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Seafood of all sorts -  seared or sushi style scallops, tuna, swordfish, rouget, fresh sardines, or as an aperitif with anti-pasti, olives, cheeses, saucissons, crusty bread.
ABV: 13%
Price: $27

Savoie!

Savoie!
Originally uploaded by Chris Cree MW

2006 Domaine Frederic Giachino Roussette de Savoie "Altesse"

ORGANIC

I love this unique, delicious, expressive wine crafted in vineyards high in the foothills of the French Alps. It is redolent of Bergamont, clover, acacia - it's dry, mineral, refreshing and exquisitely fine. One of my favs - Buy it at 56 Degree Wine - only $15!

Region: Roussette de Savoie, France
Grape(s): 100% Altesse (Roussette)
Terroir: Granite and Slate soils
Farming: Certified Organic
Cuisine: FONDUE! Cheeses like Tome de Savoie, mild fish, shell fish,
Asian or Thai, all kinds of appetizers, pastas in light sauce.
Alcholol: a mere 12%
Drink: Now - 2012

2005 Clos Rougeard: A must Have Vintage

Well the much anticipated 2005 wines from Clos Rougeard have arrived and the verdict is in: without doubt some of the finest expressions of Cabernet Franc I have ever had. This vintage, from this estate, is an absolute must have for my cellar.

To me, Clos Rougeard is one the benchmark wineries in the world, occupying the same rarified space as some of my other "desert island wines" like Lopez de Heredia, Giacomo Conterno, Donnhoff, Rousseau, and Raveneau to name a few. This is a winery that quietly and gently coaxes pure, seamless, complex and elegant wines out of the soil and terroir of their splendid plot of land in Saumur -Champigny. These are wines that get mentioned in the same breath as Cheval Blanc. When visiting wine makers see them in our shop they are floored to see them, with several Bordeaux wine makers commenting that the Clos has the best Cabernet Franc vines in the world and that they are trying to buy cuttings for their own vineyards.

Saumur-Champigny in the Loire Valley is not the first place that most would list when thinking of where some of the greatest red wines in the world are made, but there it is, defying popular misconceptions. The Clos is owned by brothers Nadi and Charlie Foucault, and has been in the family for generations. They hand-craft wines from organically grown grapes, crop at tiny yields, and vinify in barrel, where they slowly and naturally mature them in their cold cellars, and bottle them unfiltered.

I get asked all the time "if you had to have just one wine, what would it be?". And while I hate that question, (too much to love out there!) these wines are definitely on the short list. It is an incredible line-up, with wines that in some way seem to embody the elegance and transparency of great Burgundy, the depth and class of right bank Bordeaux, and the cool minerality of their Loire Valley roots.

The wines are imported by Louis Dressner Selections who sum up the estate on their web site in their typical droll manner:

"Just our luck. We have a cult estate. Every three-star restaurant in France hustles to get a small allocation. No one in America, outside of the lucky few, has heard of it..... Would you like to buy some? It is exceptionally expensive. And it is sold out."

Unfortunately, this is pretty much the case, with the only change being that the Americans do know about them now, as the wines have been discovered by the press and an increasing number of savvy wine buyers. A must have - and if you want some, don't wait!

Clos Rougeard 2005 - I absolutely refuse to call this the "entry level wine", the "regular" bottling or in any way refer to it in the diminutive! There is absolutely nothing "regular" about it, and were it the only wine made by the freres Foucault, they would still have a reputation for making some of the best red wine in the Loire Valley. So let's call it the "Clos". It is produced from 25 year old vines and matured in older oak barrels. To me it is the generally the most forward and accessible of the reds, fine, cooler and more classic in some ways. The 2005 is absolutely lovely Cabernet Franc; herbal, finely boned and elegant, with earth notes and underbrush underneath, and some dark fruits as well. Lovely burst of flavor at first, but with fine grippy tannins; focused and linear when first tasted, opening and expanding with a bit of time in the glass, showing the depth and character of the vintage and a glimpse of what those patient enough to hold on to this delicious wine for 6-10 years or so will enjoy. $57* per bottle.

Les Poyeux - The Poyeux is from 40-60 year old vines, and fermented half in new Allier barrels and half in one year old barrels from Chateau Haut Brion and Chateau Margaux. Right out of the gate this is fuller, more aromatic and expressive than either of the other two. A sweetness of dark fruits, kirsch and hint of smoky/charred wood and tobacco; complex, layered. Even more expressive with time in the glass. This is riper and more complex than the lovely "Clos", with more exotic spice box nose and darker fruits, more forward than the brooding Le Bourg. Ripe tannins are ample, but they well-integrated and woven into the wine, mainly showing in the finish. Cellar this for 7-12 years. $76* per bottle

Le Bourg - This wine is from 80+ year old vines pruned to extraordinarily low yields, fermented and aged in 100% new Allier barrels with minimal racking. This to me is always the most reserved, closed and structured wine of the trio, and the 2005, even with the concentration of the vintage, holds true to form. Slightly closed at first, with a deep core of locked up dark aromas and flavors that take time to evolve. Solid and fine, with cedar, cigar box, earth, truffle; definitely more rigidly structured than the others. Less up front in nature, but very deep - almost Bordeaux like. This should be aged from 10-15 years and perhaps even longer. $110* per bottle

To purchase these fantastic wine, visit us online at 56 Degree Wine or call us at 908.953.0900.

* Wines are net, no further discounts. Prices valid while supplies last or through September 30th 2009.

In Store Tasting

Tasting some great inexpensive country French wines all day Saturday Aug 8th from 10-7 and Sunday Aug 9th from 12-5 - stop in, cool off and join us in the shop if you are in the neighborhood! 56 Degree Wine 40 Quimby Lane, Bernardsville - 908.953.0900 for info!

2007 Chateau Capion 1C Vin de Pays de L'Herault Blanc, Languedoc ORGANIC - While Chateau Capion has a rich history dating back to 1873, the Buhrer family from Switzerland purchased the estate in 1996 and the wines have been on the rise ever since. Organically grown fruit grown on limestone soils, there is no irrigation at play. Michel Tardieu is the talent behind this blend of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 15% Viognier and 5% Sauvignon Blanc that is raised in new and old French oak for 8 months. When I first heard this wine described I envisioned something heavier, fatter and more unctious with its Chardonnay and Roussanne majority in the blend. I was happily, completely wrong! While it has some body, it is absolutely lively and fresh on the palate, perhaps from the limestone soils, with tangerine, citrus blossom and honeysuckle nose and a palate to match! Perfect summer white all on its own or with a wide range of seafood, meaty fish, lobsterm shrimp, scallops, asian cuisine - real find! Click on the name above to order! $17.50 per bottle.

2007 Chateau St Jean de la Gineste Corbieres Vieilles Vignes, Languedoc ORGANIC - Located in Corbieres, just west of Narbonne, this organic estate sits on 54 hectares of well draining limestone. That is the genesis for this wonderful blend of 80% old vine (25 to 105 years) Grenache and 20% Carignan, which is vinified in old concrete vats for 12 months. Marie-Helene Becave now runs this picturesque estate with a serious commitment to the land, as well as the wine. All hand harvested, this deep black cherry, dried plums, smoke and meat dripping laced wine is long and lovely on the palate. Perfect with grilled pork, but big enough for red meat, this is a fantastic wine for summer sipping. $15/bottle.

2007 Le Paradou Cotes du Luberon Grenache - Syrah - This blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah is made employing sustainable/organic methods although they are not certified - loaded with warm, crushed berry tones, spice and sweet fruits. Soft, supple, midium-bodied and mouthwateringly delicious. Versatile and food friendly, spark up the grill! $13.50

To buy these wines click here: 56 Degreewine.com

Great Super Tuscan - Isole Olenas Cepparello 2006

Isole Olena and Paolo di Marchi

Paolo di Marchi is one of my favorite winemakers I have had the pleasure of meeting in my entire wine career. I have sold his wines for a couple of decades at least, first the fantastic Isole Olena wines from their estate in Tuscany, and now the exciting new project for the next generation (his son Lucca runs it) in Lessona. He was one of the very first winemakers to visit the new store when we opened in Bernardsville, and we have wined, dined and shared great stories and a wine philosophy of respect for the terroir and natural winemaking many times both here and in Italy.

The family bought the estate in 1960's, putting two properties together, Isole and Olena. At the time, the dynamic was quite different than todays Tuscany. Sharecroppers picked grapes and wheat, with wheat bringing in the better price! These were the days of cheap Chianti in the basket, and you have to give the Marchi family credit for having the vision and foresight to imagine where Tuscany and its wines would go in the intervening 40 years.

They meticulously worked and improved the vineyards, improved winemaking and became committed to the ideal of classic, true to the place Tuscan wines. Paolo is an icon among winemakers for what he has accomplished here, and the wines are known by true connoisseurs as some of the very best in the region.

Considering that most top "Super Tuscans" sell for $100 or more, this is a true steal at almost half its competitor's price! Add to that the string of very good vintages, in particular the great 2006, and you have a very compelling reason to stock in the fantastic Cepparello from this world class estate!

One of THE Greatest Tuscan wines!

Cepparello, a 100% pure Sangiovese from the heart of the Chianti Classico area, is quintessential Tuscan wine. Paolo De Marchi has established a new standard for Sangiovese-based wines by assembling the very best of his fruit, grown on the high hill of San Donato in Poggio, and vinifying it for fourteen months in small barrels, one third of which new. The result is of stunning complexity and even if very approachable young, definitely worth ageing. The 2006 is complex, elegant, and stylish, beautiful aromatics, with incredible sense of purity, length and fine boned structure. Accessible now, but best from 2010-2015+ this is a must for any serious lover of great Sangiovese.

To order, click here and search on Isole.

Les Alps!

Well it was a tough weekend for the veterans! Tom Watson, after playing 71 holes of golf missed a long putt to win The Open and truly make history in one of the greatest comebacks of all time. In the end, Cink was too much in the playoff, and Watson's incredibly exciting run came to an end. But second place ain't bad at nearly 60, and my hat's off to Tom!

In the tour, the first stage of the Alps into Verbier might be telling the same story, as Alberto Contador poured it on in the last climb in a burst of incredible climbing power and ability to leave the Peloton eating his dust, including 37 year old Lance Armstrong. The difference is that this one's not over, and anything can happen in the final week. Lance is in second by a little more than a minute, and there's still a lot of race left!

Tuesday the race starts in Switzerland, over the Hors Category climb of the Col du Grand-St-Bernard and into Italy where they will descend into the Aosta Valley. This is one of the most amazing wine regions I have ever visited, and I love the wines not only for their unique character, but for the gritty tenacity of the people who still grow grapes and make wine in some of the highest vineyards in the world on the steep slopes of the high Alps.

2008 Le Cave du Vin Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle Vini Estremi Vallee d'Aosta, About $20 - While we generally work only with estate grown wines, La Cave du Vin Morgex et de La Salle is a cooperative that bucks the trend. Founded in 1983 in an attempt to rescue viticulture from becoming extinct because of the sheer labor involved to grow grapes in this extreme environment, over 90 growers united to cultivate the Prie Blanc grape, an obscure variety that is indigenous to the Vallee. The growers here look at you with incomprehension if you ask if they farm organically. Here in the high Alps, traditional farming never left; it is simply how they have always done it. The system of trellises used on the steep terraces is called pergola bassa, or low pergola, and they have been used for centuries. La Cave winemaker Gianluca Telloli explains that the low pergola helps protect the vines from wind and deep snow in winter, and allows every ounce of energy from the sun to be captured to help in the ripening of the grapes in summer. By keeping the vines close to the close to the ground, heat is stored and reflected. Stone piles scattered throughout the terraces look haphazard but serve the same purpose, gathering and reflecting heat to the vines.

As for the wine, it is a truly unique white with aromas redolent of white flowers. Crisp and light yet persistent, with just a tinge of spritz. It is as pure and clean on the palate as the alpine environment where it is grown. Delicate nuances of pear, melon, and sea salt flavors are delivered with a stony minerality that comes from the sheer rock where the vines are grown. It has great intensity and finishes with bountiful acidity and very fine length. Sip it on its own, or serve it with salads, charcuterie and anti-pasti, shellfish or mild fish or a poached chicken breast with lemon and herbs.

2005 Caves de Donnas Valle d'Aosta Rouge, about $24 - This is another incredible wine carved out of the rocks of the Alps; Dried cherry, mid weight and with charming old world rusticity. While this is the work of a cooperative, it is work featuring the utmost attention to detail. The vineyards lie on the hillsides of the Dora Balthea on steeply terraced slopes. A blend of 85% Picotendro (Nebbiolo) with a bit of Freisa and Neyret, this is a deliciously rustic red with perfumed dried cherry, cloves and bits of leather. Reminds me of an incredible dinner I had when skiing in Cervinia at a place called La Niege D'Antan, drinking all local wines I had never had before, incredible multicourse dinner culminating with a veal Val D'Aostana, double thick chopped, split and stuffed with Fontina cheese, all melty in the heat of the chop, and crisped parma ham and sage to set it off. Superb!

Renardat-Fâche Cerdon de Bugey, about $24 - The tour leaves the lovely Valle d'Aosta via another HC climb over the Col de Petite St-Bernard and back into France and the Haut Savoie. This is a truly iconic wine region with unique wines from little known grapes. The small French town of Cerdon lies in the shadow of the Alps, an it is here that Alain Renardat-Fâche makes his unique Cerdon de Bugey. This is a pink sparkler made from Gamay and Poulsard grapes using the tradiotnal method of aging the wine in the bottle and disgorging like Champagne, but it's a lot less money! It has moderate sweetness, but is not cloying or heavily sweet at all - just like eating fresh berries - naturally low alcohol makes it a perfect choice on a warm summer day as an aperitif, or after dinner for a refreshing nip that won't do too much damage!

To buy the wines, visit us online at 56 Degree Wine