Burgundy Rules!

Once again I was happy to be included at an impromptu dinner with JVE and friends, held on short notice due to a visit from afar of one of our esteemed members. JVE suggested Burgundy as the theme, putting up a bottle of DRC La Tache 1993 as incentive - needless to say there were not many no shows! In any case the crew dug deep and we tasted a great assortment of top notch wines that led to the dinner concluding with a call for a trip to Burgundy ASAP - I'm in!! Thanks to all for their generosity and camaraderie and especially to JVE for hosting yet another superb evening! Here are my rough notes, quickly taken and only slightly edited:

Paul Pernot 2007 Batard Montrachet - lovely! just opening and showing some complex tones of acacia, linden and apple. Softer and plusher than expected. Lovely core of solid fruit. Still young and primary but delicious! A few bottles available at 56 Degree wine.

Lamy Pillot 1993 Le Montrachet - Wow! Lush and complex and beautiful. Mouth filling, super-long. This was great out of the gate and just got better and better as it opened - improved significantly throughout the evening. Full, lush yet with great detail and underlying acidity. Acacia, linden, nutty caramel tones with good solid fruit. Outstanding wine!

Aubert Ritchie 09. Black spice. Ripe. New world saturated. Hint of petrol. Sweet. Alchy. Spiced black cherry liqueur. Some vanilla notes. Very saturated and dense. This opened nicely with an hour or so in the glass. Drink now, better in year or two and over 3-4 years thereafter.

Williams Seylem 04 Farrington vineyard. Earth. Mint. Some maturity. Touch rustic even. More mature. Leather and dried fruits. At its peak. Might have guessed it Burgundy if tasted blind. Starkly different from Aubert.

Volnay 2007 Cuvee Blondeau Simon Bize. Hospice de Beaune. Wow. Beautiful elegant red cherry, supple, Very detailed and fine. Drinking beautifully, will improve for 3-4 at least. Silky and pure, sexy Volnay on the lithesome side. Lovely wine.

Corton Bressandes 2005 Vincent Girardin. tight. touch reductive. Closed. Mineral notes, firm. Well proportioned and solid. Tight deep solid core of red cherry fruit. Opened and relaxed with some time in the glass. Great future ahead, 5 -10+ years. vg++

Vosne Romanee 1995 Latour dried leathery, a bit past prime.

Gevrey Chambertin 2004 Claude Dugat - Fresh turned earth. (merde was uttered, with some questioning the exact type) With time deeper cherry dark fruit emerged. Still earthy, a hint of green. Needs more time, 3-5 years minimum, to shed its youthful, compact attributes and whiff of 2004 greenness and for at least that long after.

Trapet Chambertin 2008 - Coolish. Tight. A touch greenish and herbal, with darker tones underneath. Med ruby. good. Young. Still closed and angular and young. Needs time! Drink in 10-15 years. Very Good+, just a bit young and tight right now.

Charmes Chambertin 1996 Perrot Minot. Med deep ruby/purple. A bit angular and high toned at first, closed a bit on the nose and palate, highish acids. Meaty leathery, dark cherry tones - seemed a bit awkward at first, opened with time. Very good+, but needs 4-5 years more at least.

Chambertin Clos de Beze Groffier 2002. Beautiful crushed cherry, spice. Still fresh and youthful but just out of its shell. Supple, harmonious. Balanced long, complex and intriguing. Silky. Beautiful. still young and somewhat primary, lovely mouth feel, ripe tannins, long, lingering persistent finish. Great wine! As good as it is tonight is still a baby, love to revisit this in 10+ years!

La Tache DRC 1993. Dark cool spiced. Intense. Porcini mushroom, black cherry, tight, structured and firm. Dark concentrated with tart black cherry fruit core. Wound tightly and while focused and firm not showing its stuff tonight. Highish acidity, went back to it after being opened for a bit not much change. This should have been rockin' and just couldn't figure it out tonight.

I looked this up when I got home as it was so perplexing, Burghound reports the following:

"Tasting note: (As noted in Issue 4, I have experienced a fair amount of bottle variation with the '93 but both this bottle and a second bottle that I had in early May were outstanding). ("severe, closed and understated but I am convinced it will be a great La Tâche" - AdV). This too evidences a slight floral quality, and a fascinating mix of earth, leather, tea and spice notes plus an interesting green bark component. The slightly austere, tannic, wonderfully rich flavors are dense, in fact extremely dense with excellent depth and terrific complexity and a finish that seems to go on forever. Though there are now hints of secondary aromas, this remains very young, structured and remarkably intense. When you get the right bottle, the '93 can be a real stunner. Note: the inconsistency of this wine continues unabated as a bottle opened at the Domaine recently was almost aggressively vegetal and awkward. In short, when it's good it's very good but I've now had too many disappointing bottles not to be wary." Not encouraging for a wine that trade well over the $1,000 mark!!

Clair Dau Clos de Beze 1962. another "WOW!" Hazy and a hint of brick. Nose mature yet vibrant and still fresh. Incredible! Earth. Sous bois, marmite. Magnificent from first whiff to last, lovely, lingering sip, with a finish lasted til the Jersey side of the Tunnel!

Thanks again JVE and everyone for a great night!

Once more to Mecca - A night at Brooklyn Fare

Part two of the weeks outstanding dining agenda took place at Brooklyn Fare with Chef César Ramirez and his truly amazing, indescribable, mind-blowing cuisine. I wish I could recall it all myself, but with the help of good friend Mark Scudiery and some of the rest of the

clan that was there that night, a decent accounting of the menu exists. (Mark's excellent Blog "Wine Without Numbers recounts the evening well better than my notes - click here to read). They really don't like you taking notes at Brooklyn Fare, and you will be reminded if you stray - but I respect that, and so I put away camera and iPhone after about course 4 and surrendered to the show. Ceasar wants you to be present in the moment, not head down in your device, tweeting bragging rights to your blog buddies. But it is SOOOO good, and there is so much variety, nuance, finesse....so much going on that it is nearly impossible to recall without a little crib sheet. All I can say is that every taste he plates up in front of your eyes is hors category, and every time way more than a few are far beyond that.

And then you have Cesare himself, focused, intense and subdued early on, warming up and relating a bit more as the night goes on. I can well imagine that the tone of the crowd on a particular night plays a role. Every time I am there it's a little like a winery visit where it can start a little cool as they sort of feel you out, sense your interest and passion, and once gauged, the whole mood warms (or not as the case may be). Meanwhile a non-stop, choreographed production goes on - no wonder he's quiet at first, he has a lot to do! We are talking 15-20 dishes prepared in Cesars own words "like your are working with no net, nothing to hide - everything up front, one shot at it, right in front of your eyes". It really is food theater at the very highest level. No pressure!

Why do I love his cooking so much? Why is this simply the best restaurant I have be

en to (twice now) since El Cellar de Can Roca? It's the amazingly creative, simple, perfect composition of every taste I encounter here. It is first and foremost about the ingredients: ingredients, ingredients! (David Bouley espoused the same just a few nights before. Nothing but great, fresh, seasonal, impeccable food. Second is the technique - only those with the very best can be so deft and subtle, and yet complex at the same time, interpreting, expressing - never taking over. Each part in its place, each flavor carefully chosen - nothing more, nothing less -

resulting in compelling,thought provoking flavors and textures. It's precise, measured - almost contrary to the high tech approach - this is simply perfect food, perfectly prepared and presented.

Oh, I almost forgot - did I mention we had seven wines from Domaine Leflaive? Yes, THE Domaine Leflaive! Hard to believe that wines of this caliber were almost an afterthought - but in retrospect it was because they too were in perfect harmony, melding with the cuisine, heightening, complimenting, and contrasting with the wonderfully nuanced food - the mineral, crisp 2007s were perfect with the seafood dominant menu. Many perfect pairings, building from Macon Verze, Bourgogne Blanc, Puligny Village, several 1er Cru Wines and on to the Grand Crus, and finally one lonely but delicious Maillard 1993 Aloxe Corton Corton 1er Cru les Lollieres. An excellent night - as Mark says in his blog "Hail César!"

Cassis - A Mediterranean Gem

The region of Cassis, on the sparking Mediterranean coast on the south of France, is perhaps one of the most beautiful wine regions on earth. It is a popular tourist and vacation spot (about 20 kilometers east of Marseilles), with dramatic views of the sea, the mountainous cliffs (some of the highest maritime bluffs in Europe), and the beautiful rocky coves called Calanques.

It is also known for its delicious, if little known white and rose wines, and supposedly even tinier amount of red which I have never seen. The cliffs along the coast have been maritime landmarks for centuries, and this region has been occupied since the Ligures arrived in 500-600 BC, with the Romans not far behind. Cassis is also known for its stone, its quarries producing masonry for the quays of Alexandria, Algiers, Pireaus and Marseilles, as well as for the base of the statue of Liberty.

It is a tiny wine region, with only 12 Domaines making wine from 196 hectares of grapes. In some ways its beautiful location works against grape growing due to high land values that threaten the vineyards with development, and the stunningly beautiful cliffs and rocky outcrops that offer no room for expansion. There have been efforts to enforce strict zoning to protect existing vineyards however, and it seems that for now the tiny production of the region is safe. Soils are mainly limestone, with about 75% of the production white wine and the balance rose. Grapes for white include Clairette, Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc.

At 56 Degree Wine we carry two producers: Domaine du Bagnol and Clos St Magdeleine, when we can get them that is! Not much wine is produced, and with local demand high, not much of that is exported. I look forward every year to the wines' arrivals, both the whites and especially the rose wines, whose arrival seems to herald the arrival of summer. The whites are crisp, clean, unoaked, but good body and character - perfect seafood companions! The Rose wines are dry, clean and aromatic, with slight variations from producer to producer and vintage to vintage, but are always among my favorites we stock. They are perfect with all sorts of appetizers, cured meats, grilled veggies, tapenades, salads of all kinds especially classic nicoise with seared tuna, and grilled fish like snapper or Bronzino.  There is nothing quite so great as taking a small boat along the coast, packing a picnique lunch, a few chilled bottles of Cassis Blanc and Rose, and finding one of the secluded coves with a pebbly sandy beach and spending a lazy afternoon. Another gem is La Villa Madie located at the foot of the cliff just next to Clos St. Magedeleine. To see a list of Cassis wines in stock, Click here.

2008 Clos Ste Magdeleine Cassis Blanc - ORGANIC / BIODYNAMIC - This is one of the most beautiful locations for a winery in the world, bar none! Perched on a bluff above the sparkling blue Mediterranean, they craft lovely Cassis Blanc and Rose from grapes grown in their own estate vineyards. The region is miniscule, only producing something like 40,000 cases in total, and would probably have disappeared altogether if it weren't for strict zonong that restricts further building.
Region: Cassis (Provence), France
Grapes: Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc
Farming: Certified Organic & Biodynamic
Drink: Now
Cuisine: appetizers, grilled veggies, cured meats, olives, tapenade, grilled fish or a salad nicoise.
ABV: 12.5%

2010 Clos Ste Magdeleine Cassis Rose - ORGANIC / BIODYNAMIC - the ultimate summer party wine! - This lovely, classic dry rose is from vineyards around the village of Cassis, literally a stones throw from the sparkling Mediteranean Sea.  It is made from 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault & 15% Mourvedre, all local red grape varieties with the juice and skins pressed and macerated together for just enough time for the wine to pick up its lovely salmon color.  Gathering hints of red fruits and its tinge of structure before the skins are removed, its then fermented dry much like a white wine. Great served chilled with grilled seafood or poultry, all kinds of salads (nicoise - perfect!) seared rare tuna and all on its own on a warm night. Liquid summer!
Region: Cassis (Provence), France
Grapes: 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault & 15% Mourvedre
Farming: Certified Organic & Biodynamic
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Light appetizers, poultry, seafood, salads
ABV: 12.5%

2009 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc - Comprised of 50% Marsanne, 35% Clairette and 15% Ugni Blanc, Domaine du Bagnol has fashioned a wine that is the epitome of fresh white from Provence.  The thing that separates them from the pack is the layers of flavors that unfold in the glass, making this stimulating wine on many levels.  Melons, white peach, honeydew with pears making an appearance as the wine resolves in a long finish.  Lovely cleansing acidity, a wealthy of juicy fruit and nice texture make this a perfect choice for seafood, shellfish, roasted chicken or as a great aperitif.  Ready to enjoy now so no need to wait.
Region: Cassis (Provence), France
Grapes: 50% Marsanne, 35% Clairette & 15% Ugni Blanc
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Seafood of all sorts -  seared or sushi style scallops, tuna, swordfish, rouget, fresh sardines, or as an aperitif with anti-pasti, olives, cheeses, saucissons, crusty bread.
ABV: 13%
Price: $27

Chaine Event at Matts Red Rooster

Great dinner with the Chaine at Matts Red Rooster in Flemington, with Summer Grillin' and Chillin' the theme. We had Chef/Owner Matt McPherson create a menu inspired by summers fresh, seasonal ingredients and worked the wines back from there to match. It was a great evening - superb food, great service, enthusiastic and appreciative crowd and the wines worked out ok too!! Thanks to everyone at Matts for a great job and to Celia for putting it all together! I really like this restaurant, the preps, the fresh local slant, the open kitchen and the BYO! Glad to be back for such a great event and have made promises to myself to come back more often! The menu and wines:


Reception - Chilled, Truffled Griggstown Chicken Liver Pate, Watermelon & Fresh Mozzarella Skewers w/ pickled red onions, Grilled Flat Bread w/ charred apricot chutney & roasted foie gras , Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho Shooters, A.B.C. (Avocado, bacon & crabmeat)

2009 Ameztoi Txakolina de Getaria - Who knew that a white made partially from a red grape could make a wine that is so devoid of color, yet so bathed in flavor intensity. Hondarribi Zuri (white grape) and Hondarribi Beltza (red grape) are grown on sandy, limestone soils in the heart of the Basque country near San Sebastian. Vinified in stainless steel tanks and bottled with a touch of natural residual carbon, this lively, zippy white has just a little spritz to it. I liken it to the most amazing grown-up limeade you'll ever encounter with the joy of effervescence. When at an authentic bar like Txikito, they will serve this wine to you in a tumbler, just as they do in San Sebastian. A special pourer is inserted in the top of the bottle and the wine is poured from high up to release all that frothy goodness in the glass. And while this certainly is a refreshing quaff, its also serious and complex wine delivering a multitude of flavors: fresh lime, sea salt, minerals, hint of mint

Region: Getaria, Spain
Grapes: Hondarribi Zuri (white grape) and Hondarribi Beltza (red grape)
Vini/Viti: Stainless steel cool fermentation
Cuisine: Light fish, seafood, apetizers of all types
Drink - Now
SRP: $22


First Course - Grilled Day Boat Scallop, Roasted local beet & horseradish compote

2008 Domaine Bzikot Bourgogne Blanc - From a great plot along the Puligny bench, Sylvain Bzikot tenderly cares for his vines in Huilleres. They lie right alongside those of Domaine Leflaive and the
vinification is just as exacting and meticulous as his village and 1er cru sites. He gently presses the wine and vinifies 1/3 of it in barrels (5% new) with the remainder only treated to stainless steel. This lends
texture but not oakiness. Clean and fresh on the palate, the Bourgogne shows Puligny-like characters of
apples, pears and stony mineral notes in the long finish. Superb now, but I suspect this little wine will live on and strut its stuff with flash for another four years.

Region: Burgundy, France
Grape: Chardonnay
Drink: Now - 2014
ABV:
SRP : $28

Second course: Wood Fired Romaine Heart, Roasted Corn & Creamy Parmesan Dressing

2010 Mas de Cadenet Sainte Victoire Cotes de Provence Rose - In what is clearly the steal of the season,
this wine from the small appellation of Sainte Victoire is destined to be the stuff of legend. And rightfully
so... It's that outstanding. Usually, Provence Rose is light and crisp, the ultimate refresher on a hot day.
Although Sainte Victoire is not on the tip of most wine lovers proverbial tongue, it is very well known in
Provence for making Rose wines with grace. This is the most complex Rose I've had all year. Floral and
pretty aromatics of jasmine and strawberry lead the way to a palate filled with light cherry, watermelon,
white peach, sea salt and a very long and mineral finish. Possessing a lovely salmon color and lively
acidity, this is phenomenal wine to enjoy right now.

Region: Sainte Victoire, Provence, France
Grapes: 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault & 20% Syrah
Vinification: Stainless steel tank (no oak)
Farming: Sustainable
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Seared Tuna, Shrimp, Soft Shell Crab, Grilled Chicken
ABV: 13%
SRP : $18


Entrée - Sous Vide New York Strip Steak, Finished on the wood fired grill, paired with cold smoked heirloom tomato, demi- glace and served with Summer Vegetable Skewers and Grilled sweet potatoes

2009 Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone "Cuvee Tradition" - A kirschy lovable Cotes du Rhone,
Domaine de la Janasse keeps the focus on ripeness of fruit and not on the wood. While this is certainly not a rustic CdR, it has magnificent fruit purity and outstanding length. Choosing to only put 60% of the wine in oak, and of that only 1/3 of the barrels new, they made the wise decision to use cement vats for the rest of vinification. A juicy, racy wine based on Grenache, but also containing Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvedre, the Cotes du Rhone Tradition lavishes the palate bing cherries, raspberries, jam and spices. A delicious wine and excellent Cellar Defender to enjoy now through 2015.

Region: Cotes-du-Rhone (S. Rhone,) France
Grapes: 55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Carignan, 5% Mourvedre & 5% Cinsault
Terroir: Red clay & crushed pebbly soil located to the north of Courthézon
Vinification: 60% French Oak (1/3 new) & 40% cement vats
Drink: Now - 2015
Cuisine: Grilled Steaks, Burgers, Roast Pork
ABV: 14.5%
SRP: $18.50

2007 Domaine Laffont Madiran "Cuvee Erigone" - This tiny Domaine (3.9 hecatres) produces one of the top wines from this little known region tucked into the Pyranees in the southwest of France. The Erigone (the name of the goddess seducced by Dionysus) is made from 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernet Franc grown in limestone and gravel soils. Vines are an average of 45 years old. They are detemmed, descending into wooden tanks by gravity, and undergoe a cold maceration for several days, then fermented with all natural yeasts and a veru long (5 weeks) maceration. Yhe wines then go into barrel, 2 and 3 year old, for 16 months. The wines go through malo in the barrels, and they are bottled with no fining or filtration. The results are big, sturdy wines with ample structure and the rugged framework they absorb from the region they are grown. SOlid, firm and chewy, with ripe tannins and well integrated oak. perfect for steaks, lamb, and game such as boar or venison. Drink now - 2016+

Region: Madiran, France
Cepage: 80% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Franc
Vinification: Wood casks, then 2-3 yr barrels for 16 months
Cuisine: Hearty fare - beef, lamb, game, stews, braised meats
Drink: 2011 - 2020
SRP : $18.50


Dessert: Peaches & Cream Bread Pudding

Cerdon de Bugey, Renardat-Fâche - This wine comes from a little known wine region with more obscure grape varieties. The small French town of Cerdon lies in the shadow of the Alps, and it is here that Alain Renardat-Fache makes his unique Cerdon de Bugey. This is a pink sparkler made from Gamay and Poulsard grapes using the traditional method of aging the wine in the bottle and disgorging like Champagne, but it's a lot less money! It has moderate sweetness, but is not cloying or heavy at all - just like eating fresh berries - naturally low alcohol makes it a perfect choice on a warm summer day as an aperitif, or after dinner for a refreshing nip that won't do too much damage!
Region: Rhone, France
Grapes: Gamay, Poulsard
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Apertif or Desserts with berries or chocolate
ABV: 7.5%
SRP: $24

Summer Fare

Wines of the day: Bzikot Bourgogne Blanc ($28) and Chinon Rose 2010 Gasnier ($15) - liquid summer! Paired with sashimi ahi, sliced medium thin and served with soy and wasabi, to start. Then on to Jersey corn, simply steamed and rolled in butter, heirloom tomato with sea salt and pepper - both so sweet they don't need anything else, steamed haricots vert with olive oil, sea salt and a squeeze of lemon, roasted farm fresh zucchini, onion, yellow peppers and and an unbelievable wild sock-eye salmon (also from Metro) roasted to medium-rare with thin lemon slices. 

Bzikot Bourgogne Blanc ($28) - A terrific value and spoiler wine for those who say all good Burgundy is expensive. Balanced, mineral stony Puligny-esque qualities make this a wine that drinks WAY beyond its meager Bourgogne Blanc status. But what else would you expect from this up and coming superstar? Drink now - 2015.

Chinon Rose 2010 Gasnier $15 - All Cabernet Franc from the heart of the Loire Valley. Light salmon, fresh, crisp, light and delicious! Perfect summer rose for a starter, or with grilled Tuna, slamon, all kinds of apps, salad nicoise. Dry, delicate, perfumed with hints of raspberry and strawberry. Grab it while its here, its as fleeting as summer itself!

Tips for BYO's - Some Thoughts on Making the Best of a BYO Restaurant

The ability to drink what you like is one of the best advantages of going to a BYO. You can always have your old fav and not pay restaurant prices! I know people who love big Cali Cabernets with everything from sushi to steak, and while I wouldn't do it, who am I to judge? I say have at it! Personally I like much more variety and diversity and make an effort to anticipate the flavors, weight and elements of the food at each restaurant. The ability to choose wines to match from my cellar or favorite wine shop is another BYO advantage. The beauty of BYO is that while many licensed restaurants carry "safe" wines - popular brands and grape varieties they know will sell - BYO gives me the freedom to explore and push the boundaries with a wide range of lesser known grapes and regions and way more opportunity to match the food - again without paying wine list mark-ups!

When trying to decide what wine to bring, first do a little research on the restaurant. If it's Italian, chances are that Italian wine is your best option, if it's a French Bistro, bring some country French wines, if seafood is the specialty you may bring a few extra whites, and hedge with a few extra reds if it's a steak house. Asian or or ethnic specialty restaurants will also factor in to wine choices. Best to call and ask about specials or go online and look at the menu and then plan the wine.

Always bring a little more than you need. "Corked" or "off" bottles can leave you high and dry, or an irresistible menu special might lead your wine pairing down a different path than you had initially planned for. Don't mind the stares, we always bring an overstuffed wine bag - if we don't use it all we just take'em home!

Bring a range of styles that are versatile and will cover a big range of foods. A nice light crisp white is a great way to start. Muscadet, Sancerre, Pouilly Fume from the Loire Valley of France, Vernaccia di Sangimignano, Arnies or Verdicchio from Italy, Albarino or Godello from Spain, and Gruner Veltliner from Austria are great food friendly options that will cover a number of salad, seafood and light appetizers. A fuller style of white to cover lobster, scallops and richer seafood dishes, as well as some poultry and other mid-weight dishes is a must. California Chardonnay of all sorts work for those who like more fruit, oak and power, white Burgundy for those who like a little more restraint, elegance. For reds, a medium bodied wine such as Pinot Noir or Rioja will cover medium weight cuisine such as pork, veal, duck. For fuller meat dishes such as short ribs, steaks and lamb, break out the full throttle reds. Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Malbec) from all over the world work great here, as will wines made from Rhone varietals such as Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. These are the safe versions, but don't forget there is a wide world of wine out there! BYO's give you the opportunity to bring a bunch of wines to try. Again, if you open one and it doesn't work out just cork it up, take it home and have it tomorrow. Push the envelop and explore!

Glassware and service: Even some licensed restaurants have sub-standard stemware, and while I have seen many BYOs improving wine service, there are still a few who don't get it. It's geeky, but there is nothing wrong with bringing your own if the house version isn't up to snuff. If you bring an old and rare wine be sure to pay attention to service. It can vary in any restaurant, BYO or not, but at unlicensed locations there is typically less wine training. Difficult corks and sediments found in older wines can case problems for untrained servers so it is often best to take over opening and decanting in this case, or at least (nicely!) oversee the operation. Decanters at BYO's often don't get much use, so even though they may have been put on the shelf clean, over time they will gather fine dust or aromas that can ruin a wine. Be sure to have any decanter rinsed and cleaned prior to pouring the fine old bottle you have been saving.

 OK, so it's been a good wine week but I have to either get to the gym (not my first choice) or my new skates have to arrive so I can get on the ice and burn some calories, or I am going to have to fast until Christmas! Last nights dinner at the Mockingbird Cafe in Basking Ridge (Tom and Kathy West who had the Limestone Cafe for years in Peapack/Gladstone now own it) was truly amazing. Food was great - perfect with the wines, understated, nicely prepared and presented, complimenting perfectly without upstaging at all. But as good as the food was, the spotlight was on the wine. I daresay it will be a while before this casual neighborhood Bistro sees the likes of what we drank again. Here is the line-up believe it or not!

Corton Charlemagne 2000, Bouchard Pere et Fils - Lovely, solid and complex, just beginning to develop some bottle age characteristics. Delicious now, even better with 4-6 more years my guess.

Fontaine Gagnard Batard Montrachet 2004 - Way too young, a great wine that has lost its initial tight, linear and closed in character but is still all primary. Beautiful definition, balance, and harmony with all the parts in the right places. Needs 7-10 more years is my guess to really develop its full potential. Would love to be around to try it then!

Dom Perigon 1985 - Medium straw gold and just a hint of amber. Lovely nutty nose, fullish, mouthfilling - dryish and showing some age, this has been cellared here rather than held and late disgorged at the winery. A bit more evolved than those examples but still a complex, lovely old bubbly!

Joslyn Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - Poor wine! Totally unfair in this mixed company - solid new world dark fruits, sweet oak, good depth, plush, supple and approachable. Outclassed tonight but a very nice wine in its own right.

Cheval Blanc 1949 - Drinking Cheval in almost any vintage is a pretty good time, but to have this benchmark wine was really a treat! Still very fresh, dark earth and plum, mature notes, with tea and smoke. Seamless and silky on the palate, it actually kept filling out and putting on weight as it aired in the glass. Beautiful, elegant and fine. A great experience!

Mouton Rothschild 1966 - No doubt over-achiever of the evening, this was solid, dark and brooding with earth tones - the word merde was thrown around, but duly noted it was good merde! Classic Mouton cedar and cassis, #2 pencil! Solid, still fresh, in great condition and a powerful delicious wine.

Chateau Latour 1982 - Solid and dark still in color, big boned, lovely concentrated, dark earth tones, hints of cedar, earth. Complex, layered, long and drinking beautifully. At some point in time the superlatives become superfluous - let's just say these last few were all monumentally great wines and forgoe arguing about which is best - all great!

Chateau Climens Haut Barsac 1959 -  Evolved nose of Creme Brulee, caramel; mid weight, classy and fine on the entry with moderate sweetness and good flavors - finishing drier and very long. Balanced, not quite delicate but reserved in style - very pretty and drinking very well. 

Warres Port 1970 - A bit spirity on the nose, certainly mature but still holding very well. A fairly dryish style, mid weight, lovely Port and a great way to end the evening!

Thanks all for a great evening, great wines and especially to Chip for digging deep and providing some truly great wines! Let's do it again!

An Incredible Evening at Cafe Matisse

Had an awesome evening of food and wine at Cafe Matisse in Rutherford with delicious cuisine prepared by Chef and owner Peter Loria who came out from the kitchen and joined us from time to time with details of each complex and delicious dish he prepared. Food great, wines outstanding, company terrific - thanks everyone for bringing such great wines! We started the evening with a selection of delicious amuse, then each chose 3 selections from the tasting menu of about 12 or so offerings - a nice way to be able to graze through the creative menu.

Champagne Blanc des Blanc "Substance" Disgorged October 28th, 2008, Jacques Selosse . When will we ever learn??? Never, ever serve this as the first wine unless you have about an hour to spare because in my opinion that's how long it takes this mind blowing bubbly to show its true colors. Best advice: open a Sancerre or crisp white for apps, the open the Selosse and decant, wait about 15-20 minutes, pour into a good sized wine glasses, no wimpy flutes, and it will finally give you a full view of its extraordinary complexity. Not that it's not good right out of the gate, it's fresher and more lively in a way, still showing hints of its unique elevage both in its slightly amber hue and its lovely evolved and aromtic bouquet. But with a little air this wine unlocks grilled almonds, pain grille, hints of sherry, and a mouthful of complex, layered, flavors. It has a solid core, hard to call it "fruit" because this is different, transformed from raw fruit to something altogether more multi-faceted,  mineral and focused and weathered. The background information below is from the Rare Wine Company, importers of this outstanding Champagne Domaine:

"OVERVIEW
Established: 1950-1960
First Vintage Bottled: 1960
Proprietors: Corinne & Anselme Selosse
Since assuming control of his father's estate in 1974, Anselme & Corinne Selosse have redefined Champagne with fastidious viticulture, innovative élevage, and intensely vinous Champagnes.

VINEYARD INFORMATION
Soils: classic chalky marls
Vines: Approx. 0.85 hA of Pinot Noir, and 6.65 hA of Chardonnay in the elite villages of Avize, Cramant, Oger, Le Mesnil, Aÿ, Ambonnay and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ.
Appellation: Champagne
Harvest: by hand

ADDITIONAL NOTES
Selosse features some of the lowest yielding vines in the region - leading to the region's ripest, most expressive fruit.
They encourage the natural growth and evolution of the soil so that it may express minerality in the wine.
Primary fermentations occur in a mix of pièces (228L), fût (400L), and demi-muids (600L).
Malolactic fermentations are free to occur (or not) as each individual lot evolves.
Wines are held for one year in barrel, with 16% new barrels added to the rotation each year. Reserve wines spend a year in foudre before being moved to INOX.

The winemaking notes included here are only guides. Because the Selosses' raw materials vary according to vintage conditions, they adapt their techniques each time they craft a cuvée. Their goal is always to maximize each wine's expression of identity and terroir.

Cépage: Each year, 22% is withdrawn from a solera (started in 1986) of two Avize parcels; a south-facing slope and an east hill-base.
Bottle Aging: The wine ages a further 5-6 years in bottle before disgorgement.
Dosage: 0-4 g/l
Production: 275 cases" Notes quoted From The Rare Wine Company.

First Course: Pan Seared Scallops and Foie Gras with Wild Mushroom Ravioli, Gingered Butternut Squash and Dollop of Mascarpone, Drizzled with Sage Pesto Topped with Apple Relish, Spiced Walnuts and Dusted with Star Anise
 

Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1992, Paul Pernot - Youthful color, very fresh, better than a bottle of the same I had back in September, this was in positively perfect condition. Lovey, stony, cool mineral nose with hints of lemon creme - a wine in its prime and simply drinking great. Little cold at first, this opened and developed complexity for the entire evening - mouth filling, layered, beautiful white Burg! 

Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1985, Huet - Pale straw color that looks more like a wine bottled in 2005 offers a hint of the character of this nearly perfect example of Chenin Blanc. A lovely nose, perfumed, wet stones, hints of Irish wool, citrus blossom, quince, tangerine and white flowers. Comes in elegant, sanftig - pure and seamless and finishes clean as a whistle and leaving the impression that this ethereal wine could last another 20+ years and still only just be coming out of its shell. Pure, mineral, with sweetness to start and then almost dry into the finish that goes on and on. Could be wine of the night, and in this line-up, that's saying something! $80? Ridiculously cheap!
 

Second Course: Osso Bucco - didn't keep good notes here but a creative take on the classic.
 

Barolo Monfortino Riserva 2002, Giacomo Conterno - Potentially one of the great Barolos of all time? We shall see but this first taste since the impressive barrel sample I had back in 2007 shows a huge, promising future. Could it be that its struggle in the difficult conditions during the 2002 vintage has added a strength and complexity not found in perfectly sunny and more benign years? Spiced red fruit and spice on the nose at first, it developed a darker more brooding tone as it opened up - Cardamom and exotic spice hints follow., hint of that tarry petrol note Nebbiolo can have. On the palate it is mouth-filling and elegant at the same time, with a framework of very fine tannins, ample yet not harsh at all,  supporting a compact, intense yet elegant. For more about this wine or to buy it, if any is left, read my previous entry here.

Third Course: Pan Charred Filet Mignon Medallion over Garlic Potato Confit with Beef Chili and Roasted Potato Cheddar Jalapeño Broth Topped with Sautéed Jalapeno, Onions and Cheddar Glazed Shrimp Finished with Black Pepper Demi.
 

Hermitage 1989, J.L. Chave - Absolutely classic with perfumed cassis, bacon smoke and white pepper,on the nose and an elegant lovely reiteration of these notes in the fine, silky and perfect palate. Evolved and ready to drink. How many wines of the night am I allowed?

Barolo Monprivato  Castiglione di Falletto 1984, Giuseppe Mascarello -  14%. Tar. Black fruits. Old school. Grippy. Firm.  Solid old school Barolo that needs another 5-8 at least to shed its framework of tannins that surround the intense core of tarry, black earthy fruits here. Barolo for the purists, and while it could use some more time, I think it is a tremendous wine.

Brunello di Montalcion 1981 Soldera - Only dissapointment of the night, Bit long in the tooth.

 

And finally, we ended with some excellent desserts including a house specialty called Belgian White Chocolate Lattee - an off the charts, rich concoction of strong coffee, white chocolate, decadent whipped cream, shaved white chocolate and who knows what else - should be serve dwith digitalis and a nitro-glycerin pill but what a way to go!

Thanksgiving - Food, Wine, Family

One of my top choices - old vintages of Olga 

Raffault Chinon

One of the things I have noticed over the years is that, at our house anyway, it seems to take a lot of wine to cook a turkey dinner. Not so much for the food, but for the chefs, helpers, and guests! The pre-dinner line-up generally includes a few bottles of bubbly to start, then moving on to a crisp racy white or two such as a Sancerre or Chablis. We have some German Riesling lovers too, (including me), a few of whom will stay with that through the dinner. A perfect match it turns out! We serve all kinds of appetizers: nuts, a cheese or two, crackers and crusty baguettes, cured meats, olives, cornichons, chilled shrimp, oysters on the half shell, and a pate or two - tough to save room for dinner though! A good Fino sherry sometimes makes its way into the cue - another great aperitif. (For a list of my favorite Thanksgiving wines click here to go to 56 Degree Wine - updated daily!) 

With us, cooking the feast is almost as big a part of the experience as the actual dinner itself. It starts the day before, when some of the prep work is done including starting the home made stock that cooks for hours, simmering and reducing to finally become the savory, rich, naturally thickened gravy that will find its way onto the mashed potatoes, stuffing and of course, the turkey. But it is in the latter part of the prep, after the obligatory kick-ball match on Thanksgiving Day, that the celebration really gets underway.

Traditional Turkey dinner is a fairly food friendly affair, with the bird itself a pretty neutral palette onto on to which many wine styles and flavors can be added. Matching the various sides can be more of a challenge than the main attraction of the turkey, but unless you have a special family dish way outside of the usual cast of characters, the wine choices are pretty broad. And let's face it, nothing goes with cranberry sauce - it's a palate cleanser to cut through all the mushy stuff on your plate, so let's all get over it and focus on the pairings that have a chance!

My only hard and fast rules take out wines on either end of the spectrum. For whites, wines that are too crisp and acidic just clash. The savory richer flavors need fuller wines with some body - and that being said a little acidity is a good thing, needed to cut through all of the richness of the meal. Good white Burgundy from the villages of Chassagne, Puligny or Meursault work well - even better with some bottle age please if it's not too much trouble! California Chardonnays, with their rich, buttery, Rubenesque body work fine here too, their heft and fruity/oaky components standing well with the meal, although the zip of the white Burgs' might give them the edge for my palate. Pinot Gris from Alsace is a good, eclectic option. German Rieslings, at Kabinett or Spatlese level, are an excellent choice. While this may seem to break rule number one, their acidity is tempered by fruit, and they work well with the turkey and the trimmings too - the sweeter styles may even be the best chance for the dreaded cranberries! Again, if you have some with a little bottle age, all the better. Many Rieslings, despite their innocent first blush can age incredibly well, taking on weight, richness and body and becoming broader, more complex, seeming a little less sweet as they fill out.

But after dabbling and tasting my way through the aforementioned, I almost always go with red. I prefer medium-bodied, less inky, less extracted, less tannic styles on this occasion. Young, full-bodied reds like Bordeaux and California Cabs, as well as Rhone reds (both Northern and southern), can definately overpower the meal, but as these wines age, their tannins and power become tempered by time. Dried fruits, earth tones, autumn leaves and elegance replacing their once youthful intensity, and in their more advanced age, these wines can all join the fray on our table. Zinfandel gets a lot of press as the "all American" choice, but since we all know it is really from Croatia and Italy, that story has run its course. It can work well despite it's Euro origins, especially the more elegant styles - not the 16.5 alcohol brutes. Brambly red and dark fruits, a suggestion of sweetness and spice all pair well.

Old Burgundy - Hard to beat if you have'em!

My first choice however are mid weight reds - Riojas, especially traditional styles like Lopez de Heredia, are perfect in weight and acidity, and are available in older vintages too. Some Cotes du Rhone, Beaujolais, especially from one of the Cru Villages, are very good options as well. But Pinot Noir, with its elegance, balance, sweet cherry tones and wide range of variations on that theme, is my #1 choice. New world versions from Oregon and cool parts of California are typically more forward, ripe and plush, softer and fuller especially in their youth, than their nervier and more reserved Burgundian relatives. If you have some access to older Burgundy, this is a great time to break them out, unless you don't want the relatives knocking out your DRC's! Their elegant, old school finesse and complexity hit the spot for me, but even younger Burgundies from good sites strike the right balance. A few other off the path options could include Austrian reds, or more familiar Tuscan reds, or even an older Nebbiolo from Piedmont, all of which can match the meal. After dinner a little something dolce is perfect with dessert, and Ports, Madeira, Sauternes and a host of sweeties are all in play. And apres the feast, perhaps a little Cognac or Armagnac in front of the fire?

The main thing at the end of it all is to drink what you like, have something on hand to please your guests, and most importantly, to share some time and good food and wine with family and friends, and celebrate a great American tradition of thanks for all we have. 

For a list of my favorite Thanksgiving wines click here to go to 56 Degree Wine - Happy Thanksgiving!

Domaine Albert Grivault - Precision, Elegance and Respect

Last evening we had an excellent dinner at the Pluckemin Inn with a menu created by the uber talented Juan Jose Cuevas to match the stunningly pure Burgundies of Domaine Albert Grivault. More than just a wine dinner, this was a study in all the things that make Burgundy so intriguing and so complex at the same time. There was plenty of discussion around M. Bardets presentation, some great questions, and of course a phenomenal sensory illustration of the influence and importance of terroir. While to me this is the driving element here, there is no doubt that its impact can be tempered by the effects of bottle age, vintage variations, and grape growing and wine making philosophy. Give ten chefs the same ingredients and they will make 10 different dishes, but they will all agree that great ingredients are a key, much as grapes grown in great terroirs have inimitable qualities that are an intrinsic component of so many great wines. This dinner, created from excellent ingredients respectfully prepared, matched with the wines made with the same humble approach, was truly a special event.

The Pluckemin Inn provided a cozy setting, fire glowing warmly on a cold fall night, and we began with a selection of delicious passed appetizers  (loved the chestnut soup hand warmers!) accompanied by the Bourgogne Blanc 2007, and continued with that wine as we sat at the table with a tuna tartare amuse. A perfect way to start, the wine is showing the unmistakable Grivault style of elegance and purity. It is from a small parcel behind the Domaine at the foot of the hill and another behind the Perrieres. Understated and classy, it opened an improved as it swirled in the glass, showing hazelnuts, soft fruits and persistent minerality and balance all the way through to the long finish. No new oak here, only barrels in sixth year or older. One of the best buys in white Burgundy on the market - Merci M. Bardet!

 

1st Course was a Catskill Brook Trout Confit in "Beurre Noissette", Uni, Local Apples with the  2007 & 2008 Albert Grivault Meursault VIllages. These two wines, while both expressing the Grivault elegance, could not have been more different - both also showing true to vintage. The 2007 was more reserved, focused, its mineral tones and lively cool acidity pairing perfectly with the delicious trout, delicate and nicely matched with the savory earthy uni and balanced by the crisp zip of the apples. The 2008, also typical of its vintage, is a bigger boned wine, with more depth of fruit and weight, yet still with lovely underlying acidity. It is a wine that is still youthfully opulent and a bit powerful with this particular dish, but bodes extremely well for bottle development over the next 4-10 years. With another dish this could easily have been the preferred wine, its weight and concentration really only showing so dramatically as a result of its contrast with the dish and the focused intensity of the 2007.

 

2nd Course - Wild Alaska halibut, Comte Viennoise, Braised Organic Mushrooms, Jus of Herbs with the 2007 Albert Grivault Meursault Perrieres 1er Cru. A big shift of gears here - more depth, more complexity, still brilliant underlying acidity, minerals and elegance. According to Henri Marc, Michel Bardets son, the soils here are a bit finer, more friable, whereas the Clos Perreres is a bit darker and more dense, evident when after a rain the Perrieres remains crumbly and friable (its not sand but fine with a similar texture) while the Clos soils clump together, in part resulting in the stylistic differences in the two parcels. This dish was spectacular from the minute it arrived: perfectly prepared cut of Halibut, seared and tan on the top, and meaty flakey and perfectly cooked, set in a vibrant herb sauce with little mushrooms. The aromas of the dish were mouthwatering, and the taste only confirmed it - more than one of us was sopping it up with bread! Wine was a perfect match, enough richness and layered flavors to match the fish, enough acidity to set up the next bite. Bravo!

 

3rd Course - Poularde, Breast Poached in Buttermilk, Roasted Leg, Potato Butter, Roasted Shallot, Liver Toast with both the 2003 & 2007 Albert Grivault Meursault Clos des Perrieres 1er cru (Monopole) - What a dish! Amazingly tender Poulard, rich and decadently creamy potatoes, the shallot, sweet and caramelized, the gamey dark leg meat and the liver toast adding intense bursts of liver-y and chicken-y flavor - sensational! The wines were another incredible duo, both again showing a familial resemblance but also their own very unique expressions of vintage. I gave the nod tonight to the 2003, an amazing wine from a tough, hot vintage. How one coaxes such elegance and balance from this year, still showing fresh and rich and lovely when many an '03 is fading into ignominy, is a testament to the ability of the Bardets. It was a perfect match. The 2007 to me is a solid, youthful wine with a tremendous future. A beautiful core of mineral laden concentrated stony fruit, excellent acidity - one I would like to have a case of in the cellar to drink in 15-20 years.  

 

4th Course - Artisanal American Cheeses similar to Comte, Epoisses, Cantal & Reblochon with 2007 Albert Grivault Pommard Clos Blanc 1er Cru. Loved this wine, always good to be the lone red at the end of a great meal, but this showed extraordinarily well. Spice, dark fruit and a gamey note, it is never the less quite elegant for Pommard showing breed and class and elegance along with its slightly Pommard-esque edge that has definately softend since I last tasted. A lovey finish to a beautiful night!

I want to extend a sincere thank you to everyone who put this together: Joe and the team at 56, Brian Hider, Chef Cuevas and the entire staff at the Pluckemin Inn, and Olivier Daubresse for sharing his expertise and stable of great growers with us. Most of all, a warm and heartfelt thank you to Michel and Henri Marc Bardet for their dedication and passion to their lovely parcel of vines, and for taking the time to travel all the way here to share that passion with us! Nous vous remercier!

 

The 56 Degree Wine Adventure at Bouley

Wow! The word doesn't really do it justice, but last nights dinner at Bouley was just that. The Chef was very definitely "in the house", creating an exciting menu that was perfectly executed by his impressive team both in the kitchen and at the table, great with the wines, and absolutely delicious. At the beginning of the evening one of our guests asked "Why here?" I think the experience that began when we entered through the apple scented foyer  and didn't end until the petits fours and coffee were served several hours later put paid to that!

The genesis for tonight's soiree began almost two years ago to the day when Chef Bouley offered us a first glimpse of his restaurants new location. We could have the whole venue, just for us and our guests, a couple of days before it opened to the public. We could bring in our own wine, he'd design a menu to compliment. We got an insiders view and first chance to vet the new digs, and a great dinner, he got to do a run through before opening to the masses: win-win! With the Chef coming out after the dinner and spending quite a bit of time with our guests, it was truly a special evening. We vowed to do it again, and last evening marked our return.

As beautiful as the restaurant was on our preview visit, one can now see that it was not quite completed. The bones were there, but last evening we saw the space in all its glory, so much more detail, all the finishing touches long completed and now showing the comfort and warmth of having been lived in for a couple of years. The attention to detail that went into the space is truly astounding, and Chef Bouley is almost as happy talking about the French doors and hardware from 13th century, the tons and tons of stone from the same quarry that is used for the restoration of the Versailles Palace in France (the first to be sold out of the quarry for several hundred years), the ancient restored beams, and the craftsmen and women who came from all over the world to build it, as he about his incredible cuisine.  All that work, he joked, and it will probably be a Citibank branch in 30 years!

While last time we chose the wines and had the Chef create the menu, this time we flipped the order, challenging ourselves to match wines to a menu that Chef would create the day before from whatever fresh, seasonal ingredients inspired him. True to his word he phoned it in at about 4pm the day before -  yipes! No chance to order in if we needed something.  And what a menu it was, with a lot of moving parts in each of the creations - our immediate reaction was love at first sight, but quite a wine challenge! They were multi faceted dishes, hard to really understand how the subtle flavors and textures would express themselves, and how they would work with wine, especially without seeing or sampling in advance.  It occurred to me that wine and food pairing, like cooking and wine making,  is a combination of art and science, where creativity and intuition are best supplemented with real measurable knowledge and experimenting if you want to get it right. The simple stuff is easy - red wine with beef, white with fish! But when we are talking about cooking at this level, it's a whole new ballgame. Nevertheless, we asked for it, so onto the wines we went. I think Joe and I spent more time on this one than any other we have done. Looking at each detail in the description, thinking about what the main flavors would be, parsing each element and thinking how its overall weight, acidity, flavor, texture, and richness will react with the wine, and what the same elements in the wine would bring to the dish. I can assure you we went back an forth for quite a while before making our selections.

Results? I should leave that to our fellow diners, but in my humble opinion we hit it pretty well "spot on". It is also fair to say that we had a little help from our friends in the kitchen. Part of the beauty of working with such a talented Chef and staff is that they actually get it! You would be surprised how many times we have worked with a staff, that as talented as they may be in the kitchen, is quite tone deaf to the wine aspect. Not here! Chef Bouley looked at the wines we chose that day and tweaked the menu with a few deft touches to really knit each dish and wine together, nous vous remercier!

Once again at the end of the dinner Chef Bouley spent a considerable amount of time with us, telling a few stories about his wedding and the celebration of wine, food, and friends that he experienced, about his thoughts on food and cooking and ingredients, and his love of this space. When he talks about the restaurant, he tends to be drawn to its physical presence - the stone, the brick, the doors, the detail of the workmanship, tactile and connected, giving them a pat and caress like you would a thoroughbred horse. It almost seems that he draws strength, creativity and inspiration from the structure of the building. Being downstairs where you see the supporting arches, beams and stonework, firmly rooted to the rock of Manhattan underneath Duane Park, accentuates the feeling - and on that note creative, detailed, precise, hands-on, and rock solid is exactly how I would describe my experience last night.

Passed Canapés (7pm-7:30pm) – NV Pascal Paillard Champagne Brut Bouzy Grand Cru

                                     

Fresh Malibu Sea Urchin Terrine with Russian Golden Oscetra Caviar, Fresh Kinome Leaf - NV Pascal Paillard Champagne Brut Bouzy Grand Cru

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Butter-Sugar Corn Flan with Live Dungeness Crab, Black Truffle Dashi – 2001 Patrick Lesec Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er cru

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Organic Connecticut Farm Egg

24 month Prosciutto di Parma, Steamed Polenta, Artichoke,

Coconut and Early Garlic Broth – 2001 Ronchi di Cialla Ciallabianco Colli Orientali del Friuli (MAGNUM)

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Chatham Day Boat Lobster

Brown and White Honshimeji Mushrooms, Passion Fruit,

English Peas,Fresh Lychee, Hyssop – 2008 Knoll Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd

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Venison Loin Wrapped with a rye and Salt Crust

with Raoster Chestnut Peels, Pruneaux D'Agen, Pennsylvania Chestnut Gnocchi, Baby Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Comté Cloud – 2001 Barbaresco Asili, Bruno Giacosa

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Chilled Strawberry Soup with Organic Yogurt Sorbet

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Hot Caramelized Anjou Pear

Valrhona Chocolate, Biscuit Breton, Hot Toffee Sauce

Réglisse Sorbet and Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream – 2001 Isole e Olena Vin Santo

Petits Fours and Chocolates