Saturday, June 25, 2016

Rosé Comes of Age

 One my favorite signs of summer is the arrival of the newest crop of crisp, dry refreshing rosé wines that start showing up in the shop and restaurant just as winter fades to spring. Practically a ritual in the cafés and Bistros from Paris to the Cote d’Azur, these quintessential summer wines initially met with some resistance here in the States, with memories of assorted “pop” wines from our youths, mostly sweet and often sparkly, leaving a bad taste behind.  Yet each year more and more wine lovers shed their fear of “drinking pink” and discover the beauty of these versatile summer wines, and today rosés are some of the best, and most popular, wines of the season.

Generally inexpensive, rosé wines are perfect companions to summer’s more casual entertaining and cuisine. They are great with all kinds of summer fare, with dishes featured on our menu including the tuna crudo with mojama, grapefruit, almond, sea beans, and american caviar or the grilled octopus with heirloom beans, clams, piquillo, and roasted lemon, as well as all kinds salads, grilled summer vegetables, grilled fish or chicken. They are also great all on their own on a warm summer evening!

While there are several methods of production, rosé wines are basically made by leaving the juice of red grapes -- almost all grapes, even red ones, have white juice -- macerating on their skins just long enough to develop their signature pink hue rather than the multiple days or weeks for full bore red wines. The grapes are then pressed or the the juice is run off and they finish fermenting much like white wines. Another method, called saignee, (to bleed), is done by siphoning off some portion of red wine early on in the fermentation when it just has a faint hue, and vinifying it like a white wine. The juice, skins and grapes left behind continue on as a red wine for fermentation, except that it is now more concentrated by virtue of having less juice to skins, making for deeper fuller red, as well as the benefit of having a lovely fresh rosé. The third method, used mainly for inexpensive bulk rosé, is done by blending white and red wines together, with the notable exception of Rosé Champagne and a lovely Basque rosé called Txakoli that, among others, make beautiful wines with this method.

Somewhere between reds and whites, rosés are typically light to medium in body, crisp and wonderfully refreshing -- with a trace of tannin from their red wine lineage. Contrary to popular belief, almost all are actually bone dry. Rosés can range in color from pale pink to brick/salmon, to a light ruby red, and often offer flavors and aromas that range from raspberry and strawberry to citrus, melon and tropical fruits. Their individual styles are determined in large part by the grapes from which they are made and the regions where they are grown.

Today some of the very best are hard to find, selling out quickly after release. Domaine Tempier from Bandol, Vacheron Sancerre Rosé, Clos St. Magdeleine are all quite fleeting, gone as quickly as summer itself. Corsica has burst onto the scene with its beautiful Rosés from indigenous (and hard to pronounce) local grapes such as Sciaccarellu. And California Rosés have upped their game, with Sinskey’s Vin Gris of Pinot Noir and Bedrock’s Ode to Lulu, a wine inspired by Domaine Tempier and named in honor of Lulu Peyraud, two great examples. And the exquisite Rosé Champagnes from the top houses in France such as Krug and Dom Perignon can set you back hundreds of dollars per bottle.

While rosés don’t strictly have a season, they are more likely to be found in shops from early April through Labor Day and are generally best drunk young to capture their vibrant youthful freshness. A few exceptions include the rosé wines of Bandol that can be better with a little time in bottle, and those from Lopez de Heredia, who doesn’t even release them until they have many years of cask and bottle age. So this summer lose your fear of the pink and enjoy - but don’t wait! The selection tends to dwindle as the summer winds down and retailers begin to look to fall’s fuller bodied flavors.

Visit us online at for our complete inventory of summer rosés, and check with your servers for our bottle and glass offerings!

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Cold Winter's Night

1997 Quinta do Vesuvio

Wow. Been a while since I cracked a bottle of Vintage Port, but with 4-5 inches of freshie on the ground, a fire going on the hearth and a recorded bout with the Pittsburgh Penguins duking it out with the St. Louis Blues on the tube the time was ripe. Deep dark ruby purple, but not the "switched on" hue of youth - almost opaque, a deep pool of liquid color. Aromatic and expressive right out out of the gate. Ripe, warm, voluptuous and opulent. Roasted dark cherry, espresso, torrefaction. Little spirity, and closer to youthful than mature secondary - Adolescent, energetic. On the palate it is brilliant, sweet, viscous, little heat in the middle and finish is the only negative. Plush, ripe and explosive. Caramel, hints of coffee and spice and pureed cooked cherries in liquer. Layered. Another ten years and it will most likely enter a long period of truly delicious drinking. But if you opened it tonight you wouldn't be unhappy. Pass it to the left, Cheers!

Thursday, March 22, 2012

Cathy Corison - Elegance and Balance in California

Last week I was lucky enough to be included in a small group of retailers and sommeliers to taste an incredible array of Napa Valley Cabernets (all in magnum) from one of my favorite winemakers in California, Cathy Corison. The vertical included Cathy's very first vintage of Corison, the 1987, and continued with 1989, 1991, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 2001, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, and 2008.  This incredible retrospective look not only of just how good her wines are - no secret to me but her wines seem to be less well-known amongst the general public -  but also to see just how gracefully and seamlessly they have aged.

The Napa Cabernet (as separate from her own Kronos Vineyard which she purchased in 1996 and is made as a separate single vineyard expression) is a blend of the same three vineyards located in the deep, stony alluvial (Bale loam) Bench land between Rutherford and Saint Helena. While she doesn't own them, she does manage the farming and takes a hands-on approach, walking the vineyards weekly, more frequently at key times such as flowering, veraison and as harvest approaches.

Her philosophy is simple: take what nature gives you (great vineyard sites) and work carefully to capture and express it, and for Cathy this means elegant, balance wines that have beautiful purity, lovely detail, good acidities, ripe tannins and concentration, but never over-ripe fruit, and well integrated oak that never stands out or dominates. To me they are such a refreshing change from the over ripe, over-oaked and over extracted high alcohol Cabernets that seem to be the rage today. That being said, vintages matter and the collection of wines reflect the subtle nuances and conditions of each year, but without doubt the uniformly high quality and Corison "touch" were there throughout the line up. All that time in and among the vines really shows in the wines - in the cool years the wines never seem green or lacking in anyway and the warm years, while showing more power and weight, never seem heavy, over-ripe, pruney or porty. Picking time and selection is key in the vineyard, and I am are it is in the cellar as well to select only the lots and barrels that fit.

The wines were in three phases of maturity, each group showing classic characteristics of its age, with even the older vintage, while mature, still quite fresh and superb, good color and lively fresh fruit still! Here are the notes, for more visit her winery online at Cathy Corison. Not the most detailed notes I have ever taken - but you'll get the gist!

The Mature Wines: Overall  impression was of elegance, classic, mature Cabernet notes, still very good color, balanced, elegant and superb!

1987: First vintage. Ruby purple. Elegant. Leather. Dried berries. Cool. Old school. Some cedar and earth. Hints of leather and spice, very fine.

1989: Tough year, Cathy said the only time she had ever seen Cabernet rot until 2011, but this wine showed great! Med ruby purple. Deeper core than above by a bit, very expressive.

1991: Again very elegant. Hints of porcini. leather, spices. Perfumed, my favorite of the older years, with a core of lovely cassis fruit tempered and made more complex with the years.

The Middle Aged Wines: These wines have just evolved beyond their primary phase, with the edges rounded and lovely, warm aromas and dark fruited core with all the elements in place no doubt age gracefully as their elders above, in some cases perhaps even a bit longer.

1994: Deep dark fullish and chewy. Solid. Great presence. Big boned (for Corison!) but still with no heat or over-ripeness at all, impressive.

1995. More power and depth. lovely balance and good underlying acidity, long, deep lovely!

1996: I found this very elegant and fine. Focused. Supple.

1997: This is bigger and more chewy, solid. Long. Persisent. Mouth filling. Solid and dense and big boned. Bigger fruit. Long. Touch warm and ripe. One of the fuller and deeper of the bunch.

2001: This is beautiful. Some of the best elements of the riper years with the class and elegance of the cooler ones, leaning a tad towards full. Lovely pure. Chewy with well integrated oak. Spice. Dark fruits espresso. Beautiful. Long. Well knit harmonious and finely balanced. Best so far.

The Youngsters:

2004: While not exactly a baby, the 04 is more primary and showing youthful elements. Big, Deeper dark ruby purple. Full. Solid. Well knit dark fruits. Textural fine grained tannins. Superb. Solid. Dense yet still really well balanced. Dark chocolatey.  A little like 97.

2005: Still youthful and fresh, lively dark fruits, pure fresh bright. Balanced. Elegant. Integrated iak. Supple ripe tannins. Very fine. Still youthful. Very long.

2006: Maybe a bit shut down? Definitely more youthful and primary, Tighter. All the elements here but in comparison to all the others just needs a little time.

2007: Full, solid, dark hints of espresso. Chocolate, dark fruits. Brooding gravelly. Big dark. Solid. Young and on the full side, generous and ample, with a great future!

2008: More elegant, cool and restrained. Youthful and a bit closed but still with very nice balance.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Chris Cree MW's photostream

Chris Cree MW's photo stream click to view on Flickr.
Last Mays' trip to France with Bruce Neyers of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants was without doubt full of fantastic winery visits, exquisite dinners and great wines, but one of the stops on the trip that truly stood out was the visit to Pierre and Anne Breton in Bourgueil in the heart of the Loire Valley. A bonne degustation of the current releases is the norm here, and this years line-up of beautiful, soulful wines that truly capture the essence of their northern Loire climate and geology was no exception.

After tasting in the cellar we moved out into a sparklingly beautiful sunny spring day for one of those impromptu little lunches that the French seem to throw together with such ease and grace: dried meats and saucisson of various types, crusty breads, piquant country mustards, pates, cornichons, a little roast Pork, roasted potatoes and vegetables, and of course an abundant selection of frommages.

On this lucky day, Pierre treated us to a tasting of some of the gems he has carefully cellared and stored in their cool cellars, including the 1995, an excellent year - ripe, full and solid, the 1992, a bit lighter (my wedding year!) but so pure, delicate and fresh still, and finally the 1986, Pierre's second vintage, mature and full of earthy gravely tones underpinned by leather and sous bois - a French term for underbrush aromas, think forest floor and autumn leaves.The only thing better than tasting them in this incredible setting was the offer Pierre made to make some of these available to our clients back home, which I am happy to present today. To order visit us online by clicking here! Cheers!

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Check out my #constantcontact newsletter

Looking for something classic yet affordable? Second labels and second wines often offer the same style as a producers "Grand Vin", at a fraction of the price. In addition they are often much more accessible at an earlier age. To read about a super value from the Brunello region of Tuscany Check out my #constantcontact newsletter

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

California and Sinskey Jun 15, 2011

California and Sinskey Jun 15, 2011, click to view the entire set on Flickr.
Photos from our visit last summer to Robert Sinskey Winery, one of our favorites! Not only are Rob, Maria and the whole team great, fun, food loving people, they make beautiful wines from grapes farmed naturally in their biodynamic vineyards. The photos don't really do the food justice, with one great little appetizer after another coming out of the kitchen as we tasted through the current releases.

The entire approach, whether for their food or wine, is to create lovely pure and expressive products that are reflections of the natural environment where they are grown and made. Bravo!!