50 Commerce

Into the city last Tuesday for a tasting and dinner afterwards with one of our favorite importers, making our way through a nice selection of wines that included some terrific values from the southwest of France (see the email offer here) all the way up to some fantastic Burgundies from Maume and Bertheau. After the tasting we were treated to a great dinner at 50 Commerce where I met up with Sommeliere Matt Barcewicz. Great to see him again as we had travelled in France and Spain together for a couple of weeks back in March, a great trip that took us through the Loire, Chablis, Burgundy, Rhone, Provence, Langeudoc and into Spain for one night and a great dinner at Cellar Can Rocca, another absolutely terrific dinner!

The wine list at Commerce, as I suspected from travelling with Matt, is fantastic. Plenty of mainstream stuff to keep the vanilla/chocolate crowd pleased, but the emphasis is on a well chosen selection of lesser known regions, grapes and wines - I started off with sweetbreads and fois gras in a summer vegetable ministrone, Joe had Tuna delicious marinated Hamachi ceviche with Yuzu, tomato chile and cilantro. We started off with Costal Chablis 2008 - crisp, stony and mineral - very racy. Followed with Geschwister Erhardt Rusdesheimer Berg Rottland Spatlese 1990 - absolutely rocking - reminding us why we all love Riesling and making vows to cellar and drink way more often! Matt sent out a tasting bite of a Pork Schnitzel - warm and savory with a side of crispy fingerling potatos and lightly pickled cucumbers in a creme fraiche sort of sauce - a perfect foil to the schnitzel - and perfect with the wine! I had black sea bass with Spring peas, basil and Meyer Lemon - delicious but over wined with the final choice of 2004 Grange des Pere - one of my all time favorite wineries. Spiced red fruits, hints of garrigue and Langeudoc herbs, classy, elegant and fine. Every dish was great for all four of us, and the wine list well stocked, eclectic and well priced - thanks Matt and can't wait to go back!

Late summer is in the air....

It's cloudy, there is a little drizzly rain and humidity, but it is relatively cool compared to the last few weeks of full-on summer heat...almost a nice change except for the realization that summer is on the wane. Fireflies are long gone, the Katydids rule, and inevitably soon the days will be shorter and we will be back to school and work and autumn. Meanwhile the farm stands are in full swing and it is still SUMMER!  

Metropolitan seafood and the local farm stands made the night with whole live scallops we sauteed in a pan with olive oil, butter, shallot, white wine,  parsley, lemon juice, sprinkled with sea salt and served with warmed crusty bread to sop up the jus. Washed it all down with Picq Chablis - perfectly crisp, racy, focused and mineral - soooo good with all the briny, oceanic complexity of the scallop entier. Next was grouper dotted with butter and broiled, with thin slices of lemon and some herbs added late to caramelize, add flavor and retain moisture in the fish. Served with summer veggie ratatouille (garlic, olive oil, eggplant, summer squash, zucchini, tomatoes - all sauteed), jersey corn side, juicy yellow and red heirloom tomatoes (each so completely unique in their tomato-ness!) and a delicious Cru Beaujolais from Emile Cheysson in Chiroubles. Enjoy the late summer season!

Great Dinner at Veritas

Had a fantastic dinner at Veritas last evening - started with tasty Amuse Bouches, then Frogs Legs, followed by delicious Duck Breast, and summery peach/blueberry dessert - but as good as the food was, the wines stole the show. While I am sure there are those who think that the life of an MW is nothing but grand dinners and great old wines, I can assure you that evenings with wines like these are few and far between with most days spent grinding it out in the retail trenches. So it was especially nice to be invited to share these superb wines - thank you Brad

Fevre Chablis Les Clos 2007 - Liked it alot but perhaps I was rushed and a little late and just didn't write much about it - was very good and great starter! Could be heading to that place between post youthful exhuberance and before secondary notes emerge.

Roumier 85 Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses - Lovely aromatic nose right out of the gate; feminine sweet red fruits, sexy, earthy with some intriguing darker warm tones underneath. This is drinking just where I like them, sur point and in a perfect state with lovely mature secondary aromas, but still retaining freshness. Fantastic 1er Cru that hung in easily with the Musigny. Beautiful to the last drop!

JF Mugnier Musigny 1985 - A little more closed and reticent at first, with maybe a just a whiff of bottle funk? Darker color, and nose opened to reveal more dark fruits and spice than the Amoureuses; on the palate more muscular and a bit more depth and more structure too. Mature and ready to enjoy, but also still well this side of old and not showing any tertiary sous bois tones. This was a delicious, solid beautiful wine that evloved and got better and better as it opened in the glass.

Stages 18 and 19 - July 23 and 24th: Bordeaux

Today the Tour rides up through the Bordeaux Appellations of Graves and Sauternes and into the City of Bordeaux, where Saturday's time trial stage from there to Pauillac will most likely determine the winner of the race. The wines of Bordeaux at first glance seem to need no introduction. Among the most famous and expensive in the world, the top Classified wines of this region are sought after by collectors and investors the world over. This year, the region was brought into the world spotlight with the recently concluded futures campaign for the superb 2009 vintage. They are fairly easy to understand, the reds being blends of up to five grapes, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with Malbec, and Petit Verdot in support, and mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon for the whites.  Finding value here is a bit trickier, and a lesser known fact is that there are so many wines beyond the top 100 or so estates, with 57 Appellations and by some counts up to 10,000 growers. There are also excellent value in less hyped vintages that are often better than they are portrayed in the press and earlier maturing than the great classic years. There are great inexpensive crisp whites from Entre Deux Mers, fantastic red wine values in the Cote des Francs, Cotes de Castillon, Fronsac and smaller estates in the Medoc, second labels from some of the top properties and even some delicious rose wines produced. I went to Bordeaux early this spring to taste the terrific 2009's - for a look at my thoughts on the vintage click  Bordeaux. For our full list of 2009 futures, click the link. In the meantime, here are a few favorites that are currently in stock. To purchase, click any of the wine below and enjoy the race as it captures the stately manicured and formal beauty of one of the great wine regions of the world!

2007 Chateau Lauriol Bordeaux Cotes de Francs - $19.50 - The Cotes de Francs has always been an area where great value can be found with soft, fruit driven wines. However, in 2007 the sun smiled on this area and Chateau Lauriol made a tremendous wine that is drinking beautifully but could stand up to short term cellaring. At 100% Merlot, this velvety dark berry infused wine possesses a touch of leather, smoke and cassis fruit. Very good concentration here.

Region: Cotes de Francs (Bordeaux), France

Grape: 100% Merlot

Drink: Now - 2014

Cuisine: Grilled and barbecued meats

ABV: 13.5%

Manoir de Gravaux Cotes du Castillon - $19.50 - This is a classic blend of 88% Merlot & 12% Cabernet Franc from the Cotes de Castillon. This region shares much of the same soil, climate and characteristics of its immediate neighbor St. Emilion, produceing ripe, lush mouthfilling and supple Merlot dominated wines. This is made by superstar winemaker Stephane Derenencourt, one of the top consulting winemakers in Bordeaux. Drink now 2015+. Serve with classic beef, lamb, duck and other hearty dishes.

Region: Bordeaux, France (Cotes du Castillon)

Grapes: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

Drink: Now - 2015

Cuisine: Beef, Lamb, Duck

ABV: 13.5%

2006 La Violette Manoir de Gravaux Cotes de Castillion - $29 - While still a young appellation by French standards (AOC status in 1989), there is no denying that the quality of wines emerging from this Right Bank area of Bordeaux offer outstanding quality at attractive prices. Cotes de Castillon is made up of nine villages strewn along the eastern side of the Dordogne River. There is no white wine production here as the basic Right bank smorgasbord of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec comprise the varietals grown in the area. There are over 2900 hectares under vine but most of the chateaus are small, averaging about 10 hectares of vineyards. Sandy gravel soils over a base of limestone lend a perfect combination of bright fruit and modest structure.

Terra Burdigala is a partnership between two superstars in Bordeaux with a focus on excellent quality offering tremendous value. Stephane Derenoncourt (the famed winemaker of such legendary wines as La Mondotte and Le Pin) handles the work in the vineyards and winery while his partner Francois Thienpont (owner of Vieux Chateau Certan) handles the business side of the partnership. "La Violette" is a single vineyard on the property that borders Chateau de l'A, Stephane's personal vineyard holding. The clay-limestone plateau has perfect exposition and this hand-harvested wine is treated to twelve months maturation in barrel prior to bottling. The vines average 45 years of age and the tiny two hectare plot is trimmed to very low yields as only 750 cases are produced yearly. A silky blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, the La Violette lives up to its name with pungent violet aromatics, deep blackberry fruit and a long sweet tannin filled finish. From the sleeper 2006 vintage, a wine that is lush enough to drink now but will age and improve for 4-6 years.

Region: Bordeaux, France (Cotes du Castillon)

Grapes: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

Terroir: Clay and limestone

Drink: Now - 2016

ABV: 13.5%

2006 Chateau Les Trois Croix Cannon Fronsac, Bordeaux - $25 - Patrick Leon and his family purchased this picturesque Fronsac estate with the singular goal of making a wine as dynamic as Mouton Rothschild in Fronsac. A tall order indeed...but Msr. Leon has "terroir" on side. The vines of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc are planted at 86 meters high on a plateau of limestone--the highest estate in the region. That elevation as well as the superior exposition of the vines, lends concentration to the wine. The 2006 is a juicy little devil, with plums, kirsch, lavender, graphite and hints of toasty oak commingling in the glass. There is certainly structure present, but it's hard to deny the lovable nature the wine displays today. A fantastic value to be enjoyed now through 2016.

Region: Canon Fronsac, Bordeaux, France
Grape: Merlot and Cab Franc
Drink: Now - 2016
ABV: 13.5%

2005 Chateau Saint Hilaire Medoc "Cru Bourgeois" - $25 - With vines located in the gravel-laden soils of Jau Dignac Loirac and even older ones in Queyrac, this estate owned by Adrien Uijttewaal spent over 10 years sending their grapes to a winegrowers co-op. Finally in 1995, they felt that they had high enough quality grapes to make a wine of which they could be proud enough to adorn the name Saint-Hilaire. After a 12 month stint in 33% new French oak, this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc is gorgeously endowed Bordeaux. Juicy and ripe mixed red fruits, lush black raspberries, smoke, fresh herbs and a touch of oak frame this wine that is surprisingly wide open but certainly has the bones for aging. Enjoy it now (with a little decant) and over the next 8 years.

Region: Medoc (Bordeaux), France

Grapes: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot & 5% Cabernet Franc

Vinification: 12 months French Oak (40% new)

Drink: Now (with a decant) Best: 2014 - 2018

Cuisine:

ABV: 13%

2006 Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol - $189 (sale price) - Vieux Chateau-Certan has been owned by the Theinpont family since 1924 (along with Troplong-Mondot in Saint Emilion which they acquired just three years prior). It is one of the top states with an impeccable "terroir" in the heart of Pomerol. Surrounded by great chateaux such as P??trus, La Conseillante and L'Evangile, the vineyards are composed of gravelly soils with sub-soils of iron-rich clay and a bit of sand and are planted to 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Alexandre Theinpont completes a severe green harvest, often dropping over 50% of the fruit to increase concentration. Probably the finest wine this estate has produced, there is no doubt that the 2006 VCC is the wine of the vintage. Lavish wild berries, smoke, incense, leather, licorice, cassis and ripe plums have tremendous weight, but that unmistakable Pomerol elegance. While it is forward and supple enough to enjoy right now, this is an all-time classic for the cellar to be enjoyed from 2018 through 2030.

Region: Pomerol (Bordeaux), France

Grape: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon

Drink: 2018-2030

Cuisine: Lamb shank, Porterhouse, Venison

ABV: 14%

Stages 15-17, July 19-22: The Pyranees

The mountain stages of the Pyrenees are one of the places where the Tour can certainly be won or lost, and this year the should offer some of the most exciting days of the entire race. This year the riders climb the Hors Category Col du Tourmalet twice, with a brutal finish there on stage 17 after a rest day. They will also climb the HC Col D'Aubisque and several category one climbs along the way. Not as high as the Alps, the mountains are older and more rugged, with fewer passes that tend to be higher than those in the alps, and some of the climbs are steeper as a result. The mountains stretch over 260 miles from the Mediteranean west to the Atlantic, and include the Spanish Provinces of Girona, Barcelona, Lleida, Huesca, Navarra, and Guipúzcoa and the French Départements of Pyrénées-Orientales, Aude, Ariège, Haute-Garonne, Hautes-Pyrénées, and Pyrénées-Atlantiques. It is a rugged, beautiful region and the wines tend to reflect this character. 

The wine regions include Irouléguy, Jurançon, Madiran, Pacherenc de Vic Bihl Sec. Grape varieties include Petit Manseng, Curbu, Tannat, Bouchy (Cabernet Franc), Cabernet Sauvignon, Fer, Arrufiac, Gros Manseng, and Sauvignon Blanc. Todays vin du Route is a Madiran from the hear of the Pyrenees - enjoy!

2005 Chateau Laffitte-Teston "Reflets du Terroir" Madiran - $18.50 - French country wine at its finest, this is a rugged blend of 70% Tannat, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc from vines ranging from 12-50 years of age. Totally de-stemmed, fermented 18-22 days. It is full of fragrant aromatics and solidly structured fruit. Leather and mixed berries with notes of dark fruits, smoke and spices are all set upon a solid frame work of tannins. Classic bistro wine for classic bistro fare, enjoy this now and over the next four years. Steak and frites! To order visit us at 56 Degree Wine!

Stage 14, July 18th: The Languedoc-Roussillon to the Pyrenees

The Tour continues south towards its rendezvous with the brutal mountain stages of the Pyrenees today, passing through the vast wine region of the Languedoc/Roussillon and climbing to over 2000 meters above sea level up the Hors Category Port de Pailheres. It is a huge region, producing one third of all of the wine in France, and as of 2001, more wine than the entire United States. For years it was best known for the oceans of inexpensive wines it produced, with quantity over quality the rule of thumb. Today there are still problems in the region with overproduction, but in the last 20 years or so there has been a big shift towards smaller production, high quality winemaking resulting in some truly stunning wines that span the range from good affordable everyday quaffs to cellar worthy, almost cult status collectables.

The Languedoc/Roussillon stretches from just west of the Rhone all the way down to the Spanish border, and in general shares a similar climate to the southern Rhone, with its own unique variations of terroirs throughout. It includes the regions of Coteaux du Languedoc, Montpeyroux, Faugeres, Pic St. Loup, Banyuls, Corbieres, St. Chinian, Minervois, and Colliure, as well as Vin de Pays D'Oc and many more. For a good view of the region, follow the link to a Map of the Languedoc.
Red grape varieties include the typical mix of southern French grapes: Grenache, Mourvedre, Cargignan, Cinsault, Lladoner Pelut, Picpoul Noir, and Terret Noir, plus international varieties like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. For the whites Roussanne, Marsanne, Vermentino (aka Rolle or Pigato), Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picpoul, and Maccabéo make up the locals, with Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc planted too. Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains Muscat of Alexandria grapes are also planted. The reds wines are typically pretty gutsy, sometimes a little rustic, often showing a sauvage "garrigue" gaminess that seem to capture the essence of this wild, raw countryside. There are also some inexpensive wines made from international varieties that seem to have little resemblance to the region, seeking a more homogenous, commercial style. Whites can run the gamut from crisp, light and clean to full rich and complex, with sparkling and sweet wines made here too, and again some of the same type international style low end wines produced too. Sunny warm climate, rocky outcrops, scrubby, dry and starkly beautiful, with some truly spectacular coastline, this is a beautiful area of France - watch today on Versus for a look at this great region. As for wines, here are a few favorites! To purchase any of the wines below visit us at 56 Degree Wine!

2008 Maison Andre Quancard Viognier/Muscat Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes, Languedoc $12.50 - Fresh, lively, clean and aromatic, this wine is all stainless steel fermetned. The lovely fruit tones of the Muscat adds a rose petal perfumed character, and the Viognier adds peachy, apricot tones. Drink as an aperitif or with light fish or summer salads.

2008 Chateau Capion 1C Vin de Pays de L'Herault Blanc, Languedoc - $17.50 - While Chateau Capion has a rich history dating back to 1873, the Buhrer family from Switzerland purchased the estate in 1996 and the wines have been on the rise ever since. Organically grown fruit grown on limestone soils, there is no irrigation at play. Michel Tardieu is the talent behind this blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc that is raised in new and old French oak for 8 months. Pungent lively aromas of sweet nectarines and honeysuckle give way to flavors of white peach, honey, citrus and wet stones. A delicious wine that needs only a warm day and the company of friends to show its stuff!
Region: L'Herault
Grapes: 50% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc
Farming: Organic
Winemaking: New and old French oak for 8 months
Cuisine: Meaty seafood like grouper, sea bass, swordfish, lobster or grilled shrimp too, or all on its own!
Drink: Now - 2011
ABV: 13.5%

2007 La Peira En Damaisella Deuslys Blanc L'Herault Vin de Pays - $51 - Lovely, clean and complicated with white flowers, perfumed. Even a stoniness. From two blocks next to the syrah, a little less rocky as the whites here seem to do better in the slighlty deeper soils otherwise seems to have drought stress. Light press, no added so2 at this point, just minimal amount at bottling, all indigenous yeasts and direct to barrel. Only 50 cases made.Region: Languedoc, France
Grapes: 65% Viognier and 35% Roussanne
Terroir: Warm summers, cold winters, poor stony soils
Drink: now 2012
Cuisine: poultry, fish
ABV: 14.5%

2008 Domaine de Subremont Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Peyriac Rouge Languedoc - $12 - Factoring the "tasty factor" coupled with the price and you quickly realize what a great value this little red from the Languedoc is. 100% Carignan shows dark berry fruit, iron, plums and garrigue notes on a frame of supple tannins. Rustic but never lacking for flavor, this wine represents a great Cellar Defender and one that I would drink today with tenderloin or lamb chops, simply seasoned with olive oil, rosemary salt and pepper. Bon Appetit! 

Grapes: 100% Carignan
Terroir: Warm summers, cold winters, poor stony soils 

Drink: now 2014
Cuisine: lamb, grilled or braised meats


2005 Domaine Salitis Cabardes Cuvee Premium - $18 - Suprisingly regal effort for a wine from the not-so-sexy appellation of Cabardes, this deft blend ot Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah & Grenache is really beautifully made. Rustic edges accent the supple flavors laced with red fruits, raspberry, pepper, game and solid length; this is made for red meat with with a sturdy framework of tannins and wealth of fruit. Fire up the grill!
Region: Cabardes (Languedoc) France
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauv, Syrah, Grenache
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Grilled Meat
ABV: 13.5%

2008 Chateau St Jean de la Gineste Corbieres Vieilles Vignes, Languedoc - $15.50 - ORGANIC - Located in Corbieres, just west of Narbonne, this organic estate sits on 54 hectares of well draining limestone. That is the genesis for this wonderful blend of 80% old vine (25 to 105 years) Grenache and 20% Carignan, which is vinified in old concrete vats for 12 months. Marie-Helene Becave now runs this picturesque estate with a serious commitment to the land, as well as the wine. All hand harvested, this deep black cherry, dried plums, smoke and meat dripping laced wine is long and lovely on the palate. Perfect with grilled pork, but big enough for red meat, this is a fantastic wine for summer sipping.
Region: Corbieres (Languedoc,) France
Grapes: Grenache and Carignan
Farming: Organic Practices
Vinification: Old Concrete vats for 12 months
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Grilled Pork or some Red Meats
ABV: 14%

2005 Domaine de la Grange des Peres - Grange des Peres, Languedoc-Rousillon - $94 - Famous for being clearly the best domaine in the Languedoc-Rousillon? Yes, itís unquestionable. But also fame comes in the form of the Laurent Vaille, the former physiotherapist turned wine wizard. His tutelage under Gerard Chave and Francois Coche-Dury gave him the tools to become the legendary figure he has now become. Starting in 1992, this winery has gone from "on the map" to "off the charts", wowing not only the wine press, but all who taste the wines. They are that spectacular! A big rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvedre that defies logic with a balancing act of jammy dark berry fruit and savage, meaty, gamy...at the same time. A wine that will age magnificently in a cool cellar, but is truly hard to resist right now.

2006 Coume del Mas Banyuls Galateo Languedoc 500ml - $42 - This lovely sweet red is from Grenache grapes grown in the Languedoc in the sunny south of France not far from Perpignan and the Spanish border. The steep terraced vineyards are worked by horse and hand, with natural viticulture and organic practices whenever possible. Vaguely Tawny Port like, with crush black fruit, lovely mouthfilling sweetness without be overy sweet or cloying. Perfect with chocolate!
Region: Banyul, Languedoc,, France
Grapes: Grenache Noir
Drink: Now - 2020
Cuisine: Dessert, cheeses and definately chocolate!

Stage 13, July 17: Off the Beaten path to Marcillac and Gaillac

Stage 13 takes the Tour through the virtually uncharted wine regions of the southwest that include Marcillac and Gaillac. Little known here, I love these wines for their true regional identity. They can be a little rustic and old school, with grapes like Fer Servadou, Duras, and Braucol being supported sometimes by a little Cabernet Sauvignon. They are typically a little lower in alcohol, have good grippy tannins and nice acidity, without the oodles of ripe extracted plump fruit and oak that so many wines feel they need to compete for your attention. A perfect summer red and a lovely summer Rose are the vins de route today - enjoy!

2005 Domaine Rotier Gaillac "Les Gravels" - Rustic, real French countywine from the best producer in the appellation, this delicious blend of Cabernet Sauivgnon, Syrah, Duras and Braucol is authentic and pure. From gravel-laden soils along the right bank of the Tarn River, this black currant, smoked meat, and spice filled offering is the perfect compliment to French Bistro fare. Order a plate of Steak Frites and pull the cork. Perfection!

Region: Southwest Franc

Grapes: Cab Sauv, Duras, syrah, Braucol

Drink: Now -2014

Cuisine: Steak Frites

ABV: 12.5%

2009 Domaine Laurens Marcillac Rose - Marcillac is certainly not an appellation that rolls off the tongue of most American wine consumers. But it is an appellation that makes wonderful country reds and when we tasted this crisp dry Rose from the Fer Servadou grape, we jumped at the opportunity to lock it up. Crisp and dry with floral tones, raspberry nuance and mouthwatering acidity. A summer sipper extraordinaire, for sure!
Region: Marcillac (Southwest), France
Grape: 100% Mansois (Fer Servadou)

Drink: Now