Showing posts with label Tour de France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tour de France. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Piedmont and Italy and Les Alps!

Wednesday the Tour leaves France for a one day incursion into neighboring Italy and the town of Pierolo in the Piedmont. While not running through the main wine growing regions of Barolo or Barbaresco, the race skirts the city of Turin and provides stunning vistas as it winds through Alps just to the west, where fresh snowfall has actually caused some concern for the route. The route on Wednesday climbs the Sestrieres, home of several Olympic events when they were held in Turin. Thursday promises to be an epic and decisive stage as the route climbs up some of the legendary steeps of the tour on Thursday, with three HC climbs up the Col Angel, the Col d'Izoard and a finish atop the Galibier Serre-Chevalier, and Friday with the mighty Alp d'Huez.


Piedmont: Located in the Northwest of Italy,  the Piedmont region is the home of two of the most renowned red wines in the world, Barolo and Barbaresco. Sought after by connoisseurs and collectors, these magnificent wines are fairly expensive and can need years of bottle age before they are ready to drink. Yet what really puts Piedmont on the map for the majority of wine lovers is that it also produces a wide range of wines that are affordable, ready to drink, food friendly, and perfect for everyday enjoyment.

Like all great wine regions, the style and quality of Piedmontese wines is the result of millions of years of geologic evolution combined with the influences of climate (Mediterranean meets Alps), the grape varieties grown, and the traditions and wine making methods used to craft them. Piedmont, which means "foothills" in Italian, lies at the intersection of two great geological forces where the African and European continents collide. This massive force not only created the Alps, which are visible on a clear day from much of the region, but also pushed up an ancient seafloor to the surface creating a jumbled series of steep hills with a mix of different soils, slopes, altitudes and exposures that are perfect for growing grapes. 

The subtle differences between vineyard sites favor grapes with different ripening requirements, and a host of grape varieties are planted in the region depending on the specific microclimate where they are planted. While Piedmont is best known for its reds, there are also delicious white, rosè, sparkling, and sweet wines too. 

Piedmontese whites are typically crisp, clean and on the light, refreshing side. Some of the best known are made from local varieties such as Arneis, Cortese (the grape in Gavi), and a few lesser known indigenous grapes including Erbaluce and Favorita. There are some international varieties including Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc too. Moscato is widely planted and is mainly used in the production of sparkling sweet wine called Moscato d'Asti. Red grapes include Grignolino, Brachetto, Grachetto, Friesa, Croatina, and Vespolina to name a few obscure local varieties, plus Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Pinot Noir as the international representatives. But the bulk of red wine is made from Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo.

Both Dolcetto and Barbera are fairly early ripeners, making lovely fresh,   lively wines that have the dual benefit that wine makers can sell them a year or so after harvest (and get paid sooner) and that wine lovers can drink them pretty much when they are released. Since they ripen earlier, they can be grown in vineyards in cooler sites and are a little less demanding than Nebbiolo. Dolcetto has a dark, edgy cherry character with moderate tannins and modest acidity. It can be made in a slightly rustic style with more structure, or in a more modern style that is juicier and more fruit driven. Either way it can be drunk young and fresh within a few years of the vintage. Barbera is typically a bit higher in acid and slightly lower in tannins than Dolcetto. Most Barbera is pretty simple and straight forward yet deliciously juicy wine with bright red fruits and cherry notes. When it is planted in top vineyard sites it can morph into a wine with much more stature, depth and power. Barbera can be vinified in a more traditional style in large neutral barrels or concrete, or in a modern style and aged in barrique, and the best can age and improve for 8-10 years.

Nebbiolo, the sole grape in Barolo and Barbaresco, is a late ripening varietal. It is widely believed that it took its name from the mist and fog (Nebbia in Italian) that is typical in the late fall when the grape finally ripens. While Dolcetto and Barbera can thrive in cooler sites, Nebbiolo destined Barolo and Barbaresco needs the best of the warm, sunny, south facing vineyards to capture the heat and fully mature. It produces wines that can range in style from fresh and lively and ready to drink  (Langhe Nebbiolo for example), to solid, tensely structured and firmly tannic wines that need a decade or two to reach their peak when planted in the Barberesco and Barolo DOCGs. The main determining factors in the quality and style of Nebbiolo are vintage conditions, vine age, vinification method, and perhaps most importantly, vineyard location.

When made in the lighter style it undergoes shorter fermentation and maceration in order to keep its red fruit and freshness. Nebbiolo destined for Barolo and Barbaresco undergo much longer fermentation and maturation, with several years of barrel and bottle aging required by law before they can be sold, and only the best Nebbiolo grapes are used.

Most of the wine made in Piedmont is in the vineyards around the towns of Asti, Alba and Alessandria, but there are five main regions: Canavese (including Carema and Caluso), Colline Novarese, Coste della Sesia in the north, Langhe - including the hill country around the city of Alba and the Roero, and Monferrato which includes the areas around Asti and Alessandria. The region has 45 Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) and 12 Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG).  The DOCG wines are: Asti, Barbaresco, Barbera d'Asti, Barbera del Monferrato Superiore, Barolo, Acqui, Dogliani, Ovada, Gattinara, Gavi, Ghemme and Roero.

The Barolo DOCG has several sub zones - Castiglione Falletto, La Morra, Monforte d'Alba and Serralunga d'Alba - and each has its own unique terrior and style. Barbaresco also has several sub zones - Barbaresco, Treiso, and Neive - again with subtle influences on the style of wines produced. In both Barolo and Barbaresco, producer is important as styles can range from very traditional, austere and almost rustic to much more extracted, riper and more modern styles. The grape, with its firm tannins, good acidity and relatively low color component makes wines that are rarely inky dark purple, rather they have a little more garnet and lighter hues, almost brick hints at the edges. Barolo and Barbaresco are often described as  "big wines" but to me, while definitely intense, they are more nervy, racy and highly strung, less generous and more reserved and tight especially when young, and with more dried fruits, earth and leather notes than sheer power and opulence. In this sense they can be a bit stand-offish at first for lovers of riper, oakier, more fruit oriented wines.

The wines of Piedmont are fantastic partners at the table. From light fresh whites that are perfect as an aperitif, with fish, appetizers, risotto or pasta with seafood, to medium bodied reds like Barbera or Dolcetto which are great with light meats, pasta with red sauce or pizza, and Barolo and Barbaresco with griiled lamb, veal chops or beef, they are well worth getting to know. For after dinner there are sweetly sparkling Moscato d'Asti with its peachy pear notes, or Brachetto d'Aqui, a sweet sparkling red that us like liquid raspberries. A series of great vintages has made a wealth of wine available for affordable everyday drinking as well as for the collector looking to stock the cellar with age worthy gems making this a great time to explore this excellent wine region. For a listing of our wines from Piedmont click the links below.


To Italy and the Alps

Today the Tour begins its alpine swing traveling from Gap in the Hautes Alpes to Pinerolo on the Italian side with a few category 2 & 3 climbs and a category 1 over the Sestrieres at 2035 meters. Over the next several days the Tour will be decided in the Alps, with Alberto Contador flexing some muscle and giving the Schleck brothers, Claudel Evans and the other GC contenders something to worry about before a time trial in Grenoble and the final day in Paris on the Champs Elysee on Sunday.

The route runs a little south of the Alpine growing areas of the Savoie and Jura, but close enough to include a perfect tour sipper Cerdon de Bougey. Located in the foothills of the Alps about halfway between Lyon and Geneva, the vineyards are a patchwork of parcels facing southeast or southwest, interspersed with fields, pastures, grazing cattle and patches of forest. The wines of Bugey were produced as VDQS since 1958 and received full Appellation status in 2009.

Father and son team Alain and Elie Renardat-Fachet employ a technique called "ancestral method" for this incredible pink sparkler. Harvest is by hand, then the grapes are pressed and fermented in cold vats until the alcohol reaches about 6 degrees. The wine is lightly filtered with most of the active yeast left in the unfinished wine, it is then bottled and ferments in the bottle to about 7.5 or 8 degrees of alcohol, and a good amount of its original sugar. Fresh, fruity and sparkling, loaded with raspberry and strawberry notes, it is sweet but not cloying so. Perfect aperitif or after dinner, its natural low alcohol means you can have another glass on a warm summer day!


Cerdon de Bugey, Renardat-Fache - Click to purchase at 56 Degree Wine


Region: Bugey, France
Grapes: Gamay, Poulsard
Drink: Now and within first year of release
Cuisine: Apertif or Desserts with berries or chocolate

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Tour de France - Le Sudouest de France

On Tuesday and Wednesday Stages 10 and 11 take a relatively gentle route with just a few small category 3 and 4 climbs as the riders travel through the heart of southwest France before the first real test in the mountains on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The  route passes near Marcillac on Tuesday and includes a sprint through the village of Gaillac on Wednesday - villages that are home to two of my favorite country French red wines. Well off the beaten track and definately off the radar of most wine drinkers, I absolutely love the wines from this region for their unabashed individualistic character. Located along the river Tarn (a tributary of the Garonne, the river that eventually winds its way through the Graves and Sauternes and combines with the Dordogne at the Gironde estuary in Bordeaux), they are both some of the oldest wine regions in France. 

Marcillac is located about an hour drive north and east of Gaillac along the Tarn River. It is made mainly from Mansois, the local name for Fers Servadou, and the grape accounts for about 90% of all plantings. My favorites here are Domaine Laurens, whose red and lovely crisp rose we have stocked, and Domaine du Cros, a beautiful, juicy if slightly rustic red with crushed red fruits and hints of game and earth. This small grower had only one hectare in 1982 and made a mere 4,000 bottles per year. Today they have expanded by buying and renting vineyards with 22 hectares in production out of a total of 25ha.  

Gaillac claims to be the oldest wine region in France, with origins dating to the first century and records of Romans shipping wine down the Tarn to Bordeaux and northern Europe. The white wines are made from Mauzac, Sauvignon Blanc, Loin de L'Oeil, Muscadet and Ondenc, and are crisp, light and refreshing with floral notes. The reds are made from  local grapes Duras and Fers Servadou, but can also have Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Domaine Sarrabella is a producer seeking out both for their delicious, floral and fresh white and their deliciously rustic red.

The reds from both of these regions are the perfect "Bistro Wines" in my opinion - mid weight, slightly old world and earthy, with moderate grip and sour cherry fruit tones. They are perfect with light meat - pork, roasted chicken, duck breast "magret de canard" or classic steak and frites. Tomorrow and over the next three days the Tour heads to the mountains of the Pyrenees and some of the toughest climbs in the world - don't miss it!




Friday, July 8, 2011

Tour de France - Through the Loire!

Today the Tour winds its way down from Normandy and the coast and passes very near the heart of the Loire Valley. This noble river winds its way over a thousand kilometers from its beginnings in the Ardeche at about 4430 feet near Mont Gerbier de Jonc. It flows to the north and then makes a hard turn towards the west near Orleans and finally to the Bay of Biscay at Saint Nazaire. It spans such a wide range of climates and soils that the types of grapes grown vary as you travel along its course, and the wine style also vary dramatically response to local conditions or "terroir". It is really best to think of the Loire as four major regions, the eastern Loire, followed as you head downstream to the west by the Touraine, Anjou-Saumur, and the Region Ouest, each of which is comprised of multiple small AOC's.

Along the route it passes though some of my favorite wine regions, the first and easternmost of the better known wine regions are Sancerre and Pouilly Fume. These are located are well inland, just north of Nevers and are known for crisp, racy, mineral Sauvignon Blanc and a tiny amount of red and rose from Pinot Noir that can be quite enjoyable, all grown in the semi continental climate and flinty limestone soils of the Kimmeridgean belt. Reuilly,  Menetou Salon and Quincy are nearby and offer similar wines at at lower price than the more famous Sancerre and Pouilly Fume.

Just after it passes these famous villages, the Loire bends to the west, sweeping in an arc through Orleans and into the Touraine. Inexpensive Sauvignon from the Touraine can be found here, good summery and inexpensive. But the best known wines are the superb dry and sweet white wines made from the Chenin Blanc grape grown on chalky soils in vineyards surrounding the villages of Vouvray and Mont Louis, and terrific reds from Cabernet Franc in Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil.  Olga Raffualt is one of my favorite reds, delicious and fresh when young and able age for years in the best vintages.

Anjou - Saumur is next, with Cabernet Franc from Saumur Champigny and Saumur the top reds, and a dozen small AOC's making dry and/or sweet styles of Chenin that are among the best in  the world with Quarts de Chaume, Coteaux de Layon, Savennieres and Bonnezueax among the tops.

Finally in the east is Muscadet, just to the north and east of the start of this years Tour in the Vendee. Its crisp, racy high acid whites perfect with the seafood and shellfish of this region by the sea.

So grab a glass of wine from the Loire, turn on the Versus network and drink in the beautiful scenery of this spectacular region of France. For a list of wines from the Loire available at 56 Degree Wine - click here and type "Loire" in the search box. See the list below for a couple of favorites. For a truly in depth explaination of the Loire, visit the Wine Doctor website - Cheers!

Claude Lafonde Reuilly 2009

2008 Domaine Damien Lorieux Bourgueil Cucee Graviers

Gasnier Chinon Rose 2010

2009 Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec

2009 Domaine de la Potine Sauvignon Blanc Touraine

2009 Domaine Serge Laporte Sancerre Chavignol





Friday, July 1, 2011

Le Tour de France Begins - A Love letter from the French Countryside

Stage One: Passage du Gois to Mont des Alouettes - 191.5 kilometers


Let the race begin! July 2nd marks the beginning of the 2011 Tour de France, one of the greatest sporting specatcles of the year, and a visual love letter from the Versus network to the French countryside. For the next three weeks the Peleton will wind its way through the villages, vineyards and incredible mountain passes that make up this years route, with the riders covering a total of 3430.5 kilometers over 21 stages. Whether a cycling fan or not, the race is worth tuning into from time to time purely for the sheer beauty of the scenery. With cameras filming from practically every angle including helicopters, cars, planes and motorcyles, the perspective ranges from placid and almost hypnotic as the field snakes through a pastoral setting, to vertigo-inducing shots on the descents of the Alps and Pyranees. The race takes me back to the many hours each year I spend driving to visit and taste with winemakers, and offers a view of the unique character of each region of France it passes through. It is also perhaps one of the best covered sporting events, with the Versus network practically become the "Tour Network" for the month of July, providing hours of coverage beginning live in the mornings and repeated several times each day. They also have some of the best qualified commentators in the biz.

To make the viewing a little more enjoyable, for the next three weeks I'll choose a wine or two from a region along the route with a little commentary, beginning with tomorrows wild start on the Passage du Gois in the Vendee. The unofficial start is with a parade lap of the Isle de Noirmoutier, with the official start taking the riders from Noirmoutier to the mainland over the Passage du Gois, a 4.5 kilometer stretch of road that is fully submersed twice a day at high tide. The riders finish 191.5km later at the town of Mont des Alouettes.

This region on the west coast of France is known for oysters and seafood of all sorts, is a hot spot of competitive sailing, a huge sport in France. It is the starting place of the around the world single handed non-stop Vendee Globe, one of a handful of sporting events that makes the Tour look tame. For a taste of the action scroll down to the video below!

On the wine front, the Muscadet region is just to the north and east of the route for the first couple of days, and it is here that the Melon de Bourgogne grape creates incredible, mineral, crisp and intense wines with racy acidity and brillant focus. The region is not without its problems, namely expansion and over production, but there has been a renaissance of small artisan growers who are changing regions image with superb wines based on the unique terroir. For an excellent explanation of the Muscadet region click here to go to The Wine Doctor website.

One of my favorite producers is Marc Olivier of Domaine de La Pepier , who makes a range of fantastic wines from his classic "Sur Lie" to the old vines "Clos Briords" and the lovely Cuvee Eden. His wines are made traditionally, starting with hand harvesting (one of the very few in the region), fermenting with wild yeasts that allow the wine to slowly complete fermentation naturally (instead of innoculating with starter yeasts that are used to rush fermentation to get the wine sold sooner), and bottles with only a very light filtration. Pepier is also one of the few wineries with vineyards entirely of original stock with no clonal selections. The Cuvee Eden 2005 - we have only magnums in stock so buy one and have it Saturday, Sunday and Monday as you watch the race - is racy, loaded with minerals, and has a slightly floral nose with hints of seashell, stoney/briny minerality. Perfect with clams, mussels, cockles or oysters, or mild fish such as dover sole, fluke or flounder. Chill it down, crack it open and enjoy the race! To purchase the Pepiere Muscadet Cuvee Eden Magnum, click here.

The Tour wanders around the Vendee though day three, then out of wine region to Britanny and into the heart of the Loire in Stage 7 on Friday July 8th from Le Mans to Chateauroux. Check back mid week for wine suggestions as the route passes near Vouvray, Montlouis, and Chinon and more!




Vendee Globe 2008 2009 teaser by VendeeGlobe







Friday, July 23, 2010

Stages 18 and 19 - July 23 and 24th: Bordeaux

Today the Tour rides up through the Bordeaux Appellations of Graves and Sauternes and into the City of Bordeaux, where Saturday's time trial stage from there to Pauillac will most likely determine the winner of the race. The wines of Bordeaux at first glance seem to need no introduction. Among the most famous and expensive in the world, the top Classified wines of this region are sought after by collectors and investors the world over. This year, the region was brought into the world spotlight with the recently concluded futures campaign for the superb 2009 vintage. They are fairly easy to understand, the reds being blends of up to five grapes, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with Malbec, and Petit Verdot in support, and mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon for the whites.  Finding value here is a bit trickier, and a lesser known fact is that there are so many wines beyond the top 100 or so estates, with 57 Appellations and by some counts up to 10,000 growers. There are also excellent value in less hyped vintages that are often better than they are portrayed in the press and earlier maturing than the great classic years. There are great inexpensive crisp whites from Entre Deux Mers, fantastic red wine values in the Cote des Francs, Cotes de Castillon, Fronsac and smaller estates in the Medoc, second labels from some of the top properties and even some delicious rose wines produced. I went to Bordeaux early this spring to taste the terrific 2009's - for a look at my thoughts on the vintage click  Bordeaux. For our full list of 2009 futures, click the link. In the meantime, here are a few favorites that are currently in stock. To purchase, click any of the wine below and enjoy the race as it captures the stately manicured and formal beauty of one of the great wine regions of the world!

2007 Chateau Lauriol Bordeaux Cotes de Francs - $19.50 - The Cotes de Francs has always been an area where great value can be found with soft, fruit driven wines. However, in 2007 the sun smiled on this area and Chateau Lauriol made a tremendous wine that is drinking beautifully but could stand up to short term cellaring. At 100% Merlot, this velvety dark berry infused wine possesses a touch of leather, smoke and cassis fruit. Very good concentration here.
Region: Cotes de Francs (Bordeaux), France
Grape: 100% Merlot
Drink: Now - 2014
Cuisine: Grilled and barbecued meats
ABV: 13.5%

Manoir de Gravaux Cotes du Castillon - $19.50 - This is a classic blend of 88% Merlot & 12% Cabernet Franc from the Cotes de Castillon. This region shares much of the same soil, climate and characteristics of its immediate neighbor St. Emilion, produceing ripe, lush mouthfilling and supple Merlot dominated wines. This is made by superstar winemaker Stephane Derenencourt, one of the top consulting winemakers in Bordeaux. Drink now 2015+. Serve with classic beef, lamb, duck and other hearty dishes.
Region: Bordeaux, France (Cotes du Castillon)
Grapes: Merlot and Cabernet Franc
Drink: Now - 2015
Cuisine: Beef, Lamb, Duck
ABV: 13.5%


2006 La Violette Manoir de Gravaux Cotes de Castillion - $29 - While still a young appellation by French standards (AOC status in 1989), there is no denying that the quality of wines emerging from this Right Bank area of Bordeaux offer outstanding quality at attractive prices. Cotes de Castillon is made up of nine villages strewn along the eastern side of the Dordogne River. There is no white wine production here as the basic Right bank smorgasbord of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec comprise the varietals grown in the area. There are over 2900 hectares under vine but most of the chateaus are small, averaging about 10 hectares of vineyards. Sandy gravel soils over a base of limestone lend a perfect combination of bright fruit and modest structure.
Terra Burdigala is a partnership between two superstars in Bordeaux with a focus on excellent quality offering tremendous value. Stephane Derenoncourt (the famed winemaker of such legendary wines as La Mondotte and Le Pin) handles the work in the vineyards and winery while his partner Francois Thienpont (owner of Vieux Chateau Certan) handles the business side of the partnership. "La Violette" is a single vineyard on the property that borders Chateau de l'A, Stephane's personal vineyard holding. The clay-limestone plateau has perfect exposition and this hand-harvested wine is treated to twelve months maturation in barrel prior to bottling. The vines average 45 years of age and the tiny two hectare plot is trimmed to very low yields as only 750 cases are produced yearly. A silky blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, the La Violette lives up to its name with pungent violet aromatics, deep blackberry fruit and a long sweet tannin filled finish. From the sleeper 2006 vintage, a wine that is lush enough to drink now but will age and improve for 4-6 years.
Region: Bordeaux, France (Cotes du Castillon)
Grapes: Merlot and Cabernet Franc
Terroir: Clay and limestone
Drink: Now - 2016
ABV: 13.5%


2006 Chateau Les Trois Croix Cannon Fronsac, Bordeaux - $25 - Patrick Leon and his family purchased this picturesque Fronsac estate with the singular goal of making a wine as dynamic as Mouton Rothschild in Fronsac. A tall order indeed...but Msr. Leon has "terroir" on side. The vines of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc are planted at 86 meters high on a plateau of limestone--the highest estate in the region. That elevation as well as the superior exposition of the vines, lends concentration to the wine. The 2006 is a juicy little devil, with plums, kirsch, lavender, graphite and hints of toasty oak commingling in the glass. There is certainly structure present, but it's hard to deny the lovable nature the wine displays today. A fantastic value to be enjoyed now through 2016.
Region: Canon Fronsac, Bordeaux, France
Grape: Merlot and Cab Franc
Drink: Now - 2016
ABV: 13.5%

2005 Chateau Saint Hilaire Medoc "Cru Bourgeois" - $25 - With vines located in the gravel-laden soils of Jau Dignac Loirac and even older ones in Queyrac, this estate owned by Adrien Uijttewaal spent over 10 years sending their grapes to a winegrowers co-op. Finally in 1995, they felt that they had high enough quality grapes to make a wine of which they could be proud enough to adorn the name Saint-Hilaire. After a 12 month stint in 33% new French oak, this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc is gorgeously endowed Bordeaux. Juicy and ripe mixed red fruits, lush black raspberries, smoke, fresh herbs and a touch of oak frame this wine that is surprisingly wide open but certainly has the bones for aging. Enjoy it now (with a little decant) and over the next 8 years.
Region: Medoc (Bordeaux), France
Grapes: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot & 5% Cabernet Franc
Vinification: 12 months French Oak (40% new)
Drink: Now (with a decant) Best: 2014 - 2018
Cuisine:
ABV: 13%

2006 Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol - $189 (sale price) - Vieux Chateau-Certan has been owned by the Theinpont family since 1924 (along with Troplong-Mondot in Saint Emilion which they acquired just three years prior). It is one of the top states with an impeccable "terroir" in the heart of Pomerol. Surrounded by great chateaux such as P??trus, La Conseillante and L'Evangile, the vineyards are composed of gravelly soils with sub-soils of iron-rich clay and a bit of sand and are planted to 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Alexandre Theinpont completes a severe green harvest, often dropping over 50% of the fruit to increase concentration. Probably the finest wine this estate has produced, there is no doubt that the 2006 VCC is the wine of the vintage. Lavish wild berries, smoke, incense, leather, licorice, cassis and ripe plums have tremendous weight, but that unmistakable Pomerol elegance. While it is forward and supple enough to enjoy right now, this is an all-time classic for the cellar to be enjoyed from 2018 through 2030.
Region: Pomerol (Bordeaux), France
Grape: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
Drink: 2018-2030
Cuisine: Lamb shank, Porterhouse, Venison
ABV: 14%


Monday, July 19, 2010

Stages 15-17, July 19-22: The Pyranees

The mountain stages of the Pyrenees are one of the places where the Tour can certainly be won or lost, and this year the should offer some of the most exciting days of the entire race. This year the riders climb the Hors Category Col du Tourmalet twice, with a brutal finish there on stage 17 after a rest day. They will also climb the HC Col D'Aubisque and several category one climbs along the way. Not as high as the Alps, the mountains are older and more rugged, with fewer passes that tend to be higher than those in the alps, and some of the climbs are steeper as a result. The mountains stretch over 260 miles from the Mediteranean west to the Atlantic, and include the Spanish Provinces of Girona, Barcelona, Lleida, Huesca, Navarra, and Guipúzcoa and the French Départements of Pyrénées-Orientales, Aude, Ariège, Haute-Garonne, Hautes-Pyrénées, and Pyrénées-Atlantiques. It is a rugged, beautiful region and the wines tend to reflect this character. 
The wine regions include Irouléguy, Jurançon, Madiran, Pacherenc de Vic Bihl Sec. Grape varieties include Petit Manseng, Curbu, Tannat, Bouchy (Cabernet Franc), Cabernet Sauvignon, Fer, Arrufiac, Gros Manseng, and Sauvignon Blanc. Todays vin du Route is a Madiran from the hear of the Pyrenees - enjoy!


2005 Chateau Laffitte-Teston "Reflets du Terroir" Madiran - $18.50 - French country wine at its finest, this is a rugged blend of 70% Tannat, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc from vines ranging from 12-50 years of age. Totally de-stemmed, fermented 18-22 days. It is full of fragrant aromatics and solidly structured fruit. Leather and mixed berries with notes of dark fruits, smoke and spices are all set upon a solid frame work of tannins. Classic bistro wine for classic bistro fare, enjoy this now and over the next four years. Steak and frites! To order visit us at 56 Degree Wine!

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Stage 14, July 18th: The Languedoc-Roussillon to the Pyrenees



The Tour continues south towards its rendezvous with the brutal mountain stages of the Pyrenees today, passing through the vast wine region of the Languedoc/Roussillon and climbing to over 2000 meters above sea level up the Hors Category Port de Pailheres. It is a huge region, producing one third of all of the wine in France, and as of 2001, more wine than the entire United States. For years it was best known for the oceans of inexpensive wines it produced, with quantity over quality the rule of thumb. Today there are still problems in the region with overproduction, but in the last 20 years or so there has been a big shift towards smaller production, high quality winemaking resulting in some truly stunning wines that span the range from good affordable everyday quaffs to cellar worthy, almost cult status collectables.
The Languedoc/Roussillon stretches from just west of the Rhone all the way down to the Spanish border, and in general shares a similar climate to the southern Rhone, with its own unique variations of terroirs throughout. It includes the regions of Coteaux du Languedoc, Montpeyroux, Faugeres, Pic St. Loup, Banyuls, Corbieres, St. Chinian, Minervois, and Colliure, as well as Vin de Pays D'Oc and many more. For a good view of the region, follow the link to a Map of the Languedoc.
Red grape varieties include the typical mix of southern French grapes: Grenache, Mourvedre, Cargignan, Cinsault, Lladoner Pelut, Picpoul Noir, and Terret Noir, plus international varieties like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. For the whites Roussanne, Marsanne, Vermentino (aka Rolle or Pigato), Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picpoul, and Maccabéo make up the locals, with Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc planted too. Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains Muscat of Alexandria grapes are also planted. The reds wines are typically pretty gutsy, sometimes a little rustic, often showing a sauvage "garrigue" gaminess that seem to capture the essence of this wild, raw countryside. There are also some inexpensive wines made from international varieties that seem to have little resemblance to the region, seeking a more homogenous, commercial style. Whites can run the gamut from crisp, light and clean to full rich and complex, with sparkling and sweet wines made here too, and again some of the same type international style low end wines produced too. Sunny warm climate, rocky outcrops, scrubby, dry and starkly beautiful, with some truly spectacular coastline, this is a beautiful area of France - watch today on Versus for a look at this great region. As for wines, here are a few favorites! To purchase any of the wines below visit us at 56 Degree Wine!

2008 Maison Andre Quancard Viognier/Muscat Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes, Languedoc $12.50 - Fresh, lively, clean and aromatic, this wine is all stainless steel fermetned. The lovely fruit tones of the Muscat adds a rose petal perfumed character, and the Viognier adds peachy, apricot tones. Drink as an aperitif or with light fish or summer salads.

2008 Chateau Capion 1C Vin de Pays de L'Herault Blanc, Languedoc - $17.50 - While Chateau Capion has a rich history dating back to 1873, the Buhrer family from Switzerland purchased the estate in 1996 and the wines have been on the rise ever since. Organically grown fruit grown on limestone soils, there is no irrigation at play. Michel Tardieu is the talent behind this blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc that is raised in new and old French oak for 8 months. Pungent lively aromas of sweet nectarines and honeysuckle give way to flavors of white peach, honey, citrus and wet stones. A delicious wine that needs only a warm day and the company of friends to show its stuff!
Region: L'Herault
Grapes: 50% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc
Farming: Organic
Winemaking: New and old French oak for 8 months
Cuisine: Meaty seafood like grouper, sea bass, swordfish, lobster or grilled shrimp too, or all on its own!
Drink: Now - 2011
ABV: 13.5%

2007 La Peira En Damaisella Deuslys Blanc L'Herault Vin de Pays - $51 - Lovely, clean and complicated with white flowers, perfumed. Even a stoniness. From two blocks next to the syrah, a little less rocky as the whites here seem to do better in the slighlty deeper soils otherwise seems to have drought stress. Light press, no added so2 at this point, just minimal amount at bottling, all indigenous yeasts and direct to barrel. Only 50 cases made.Region: Languedoc, France
Grapes: 65% Viognier and 35% Roussanne
Terroir: Warm summers, cold winters, poor stony soils
Drink: now 2012
Cuisine: poultry, fish
ABV: 14.5%

2008 Domaine de Subremont Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Peyriac Rouge Languedoc - $12 - Factoring the "tasty factor" coupled with the price and you quickly realize what a great value this little red from the Languedoc is. 100% Carignan shows dark berry fruit, iron, plums and garrigue notes on a frame of supple tannins. Rustic but never lacking for flavor, this wine represents a great Cellar Defender and one that I would drink today with tenderloin or lamb chops, simply seasoned with olive oil, rosemary salt and pepper. Bon Appetit! 
Grapes: 100% Carignan
Terroir: Warm summers, cold winters, poor stony soils 
Drink: now 2014
Cuisine: lamb, grilled or braised meats


2005 Domaine Salitis Cabardes Cuvee Premium - $18 - Suprisingly regal effort for a wine from the not-so-sexy appellation of Cabardes, this deft blend ot Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah & Grenache is really beautifully made. Rustic edges accent the supple flavors laced with red fruits, raspberry, pepper, game and solid length; this is made for red meat with with a sturdy framework of tannins and wealth of fruit. Fire up the grill!
Region: Cabardes (Languedoc) France
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauv, Syrah, Grenache
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Grilled Meat
ABV: 13.5%

2008 Chateau St Jean de la Gineste Corbieres Vieilles Vignes, Languedoc - $15.50 - ORGANIC - Located in Corbieres, just west of Narbonne, this organic estate sits on 54 hectares of well draining limestone. That is the genesis for this wonderful blend of 80% old vine (25 to 105 years) Grenache and 20% Carignan, which is vinified in old concrete vats for 12 months. Marie-Helene Becave now runs this picturesque estate with a serious commitment to the land, as well as the wine. All hand harvested, this deep black cherry, dried plums, smoke and meat dripping laced wine is long and lovely on the palate. Perfect with grilled pork, but big enough for red meat, this is a fantastic wine for summer sipping.
Region: Corbieres (Languedoc,) France
Grapes: Grenache and Carignan
Farming: Organic Practices
Vinification: Old Concrete vats for 12 months
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Grilled Pork or some Red Meats
ABV: 14%

2005 Domaine de la Grange des Peres - Grange des Peres, Languedoc-Rousillon - $94 - Famous for being clearly the best domaine in the Languedoc-Rousillon? Yes, itís unquestionable. But also fame comes in the form of the Laurent Vaille, the former physiotherapist turned wine wizard. His tutelage under Gerard Chave and Francois Coche-Dury gave him the tools to become the legendary figure he has now become. Starting in 1992, this winery has gone from "on the map" to "off the charts", wowing not only the wine press, but all who taste the wines. They are that spectacular! A big rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvedre that defies logic with a balancing act of jammy dark berry fruit and savage, meaty, gamy...at the same time. A wine that will age magnificently in a cool cellar, but is truly hard to resist right now.
2006 Coume del Mas Banyuls Galateo Languedoc 500ml - $42 - This lovely sweet red is from Grenache grapes grown in the Languedoc in the sunny south of France not far from Perpignan and the Spanish border. The steep terraced vineyards are worked by horse and hand, with natural viticulture and organic practices whenever possible. Vaguely Tawny Port like, with crush black fruit, lovely mouthfilling sweetness without be overy sweet or cloying. Perfect with chocolate!
Region: Banyul, Languedoc,, France
Grapes: Grenache Noir
Drink: Now - 2020
Cuisine: Dessert, cheeses and definately chocolate!








Stage 13, July 17: Off the Beaten path to Marcillac and Gaillac

Stage 13 takes the Tour through the virtually uncharted wine regions of the southwest that include Marcillac and Gaillac. Little known here, I love these wines for their true regional identity. They can be a little rustic and old school, with grapes like Fer Servadou, Duras, and Braucol being supported sometimes by a little Cabernet Sauvignon. They are typically a little lower in alcohol, have good grippy tannins and nice acidity, without the oodles of ripe extracted plump fruit and oak that so many wines feel they need to compete for your attention. A perfect summer red and a lovely summer Rose are the vins de route today - enjoy!

2005 Domaine Rotier Gaillac "Les Gravels" - Rustic, real French countywine from the best producer in the appellation, this delicious blend of Cabernet Sauivgnon, Syrah, Duras and Braucol is authentic and pure. From gravel-laden soils along the right bank of the Tarn River, this black currant, smoked meat, and spice filled offering is the perfect compliment to French Bistro fare. Order a plate of Steak Frites and pull the cork. Perfection!
Region: Southwest Franc
Grapes: Cab Sauv, Duras, syrah, Braucol
Drink: Now -2014
Cuisine: Steak Frites
ABV: 12.5%


2009 Domaine Laurens Marcillac Rose - Marcillac is certainly not an appellation that rolls off the tongue of most American wine consumers. But it is an appellation that makes wonderful country reds and when we tasted this crisp dry Rose from the Fer Servadou grape, we jumped at the opportunity to lock it up. Crisp and dry with floral tones, raspberry nuance and mouthwatering acidity. A summer sipper extraordinaire, for sure!
Region: Marcillac (Southwest), France
Grape: 100% Mansois (Fer Servadou)

Drink: Now

Thursday, July 15, 2010

July 15th and 16th - Stage 11 and 12: The Northern Rhone

Arriving back to earth from the peaks of the Alps, the Tour takes a couple of stages around the Northern Rhone Valley beginning on Thursday in Sisteron and up to Bourg-les-Valence, with a start Friday in Bourg-de-Peage just north of Valence and south to finish in Mende. The Northern Rhone wine region is comprised of steep, vertiginous slopes along the river and rolling hillsides and side valleys spreading out from there. It is a much more compact region than the sprawling southern Rhone, and its location on the border between the cooler continental north and the sunny and warm Mediterranean south leads to a different mix of grape varieties and wine style. 
The Northern Rhone (or Septentrional meaning of the north) is home to Syrah for the reds, and Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne for the tiny amount of white wine made here. The Northern Rhone wines, while they can and often do have solid power and strength, still have something of finesse, perfume, elegance about them, both in the reds and whites. It is an area that I don't typically consider when looking for bargain basement wines - winemaking in the steep vineyards is difficult, and all in all there are relatively small amounts of wines made in the top appellations so the best can be quite pricey. However there is exceptional value here if you explore the regions of Cornas, Saint Joseph and Crozes Hermitage with classic peppery, cassis, olive tapenade and violet scented syrah from these villages. The top whites are found in Hermitage and Condrieu, and are exceptional wines and worth seeking out if you have deep pockets. Here are a few suggestions of wine from the region available at the shop - enjoy the race! For all of our Rhone wines click to visit us at 56 Degree Wine and search on Rhone.


2007 JL Chave St. Joseph Blanc "Celeste" $35 - In what is one of the greatest values we've come across in quite a while, this offering from the legendary Jean Louis Chave hails from a vineyard in St. Joseph that he purchased which had some barrels languishing in the cellar when he took possession. He took a taste and was unsure about what to do with them but continued to care for the wine and make subtle adjustments in its vinification. Finally, he tried the wine and was blown away with what he tasted. And after trying the end result a week ago in bottle, I was equally astounded with it! This wine is an anomaly, a one-off that will eventually go into a St. Joseph Blanc bottling that will sell for far more. 100% Marsanne from old vine material, this is polished, plush white that is like drinking "Baby-Hermitage" from Chave himself. Juicy guava, creme brulee, orange marmalade, baking spices have roundness, lovely weight and searing acidity keeping the wine lively. A wine that if tasted blind, one would be hard pressed to not think it's Hermitage from an excellent vintage. 
Region: Rhone (St Joseph,) France
Grape: Marsanne
Drink: Now - 2012
ABV: 13.5%


2006 Francois Villard Cote Rotie "Le Gallet Blanc" $72 - Despite the moniker, this is far from a white wine. Made by one of the great Rhone producers Francois Villard, "Les Gallet Blanc" refers to the "white stones" that dot this single vineyard site in Cote Rotie. Solid, dark almost smoky coffee/espresso richness underpinned by earth, ripe but solid tannins. Long, warm, lingering finish. 
Region: Cote Rotie (N. Rhone), France
Grape: Syrah
Drink: 2020 - 2025
Cuisine: Leg of lamb, game cuts of beef, & venison.
ABV: 13% 






Sunday, July 11, 2010

Stages 8 and 9 July 11th and 13th - The High Mountains!

Today the Tour reaches its first true mountain stages with two rarely climbed category 1 ascents. The start leaves Station des Rousses on the Swiss border and heads south through the Jura before turning back towards Switzerland, not far from Lac Leman. There are a couple small cat 4 hills before they encounter the mountains proper at the Ramaz Pass (only climbed twice in the history of the Tour) at about 40 kilometers from the finish. The stage concludes with a category 1 uphill climb to the finish in Morzine-Avoriaz, last visited 16 years ago. It should be an exciting day before they get a rest day on Monday and continue in the mountains for an incredible day of climbing in stage 9 Tuesday along the French/Italian border including the Hors Category climb over the Col de la Madeleine. Don't miss the excitement and the breathtaking views - the mountains are where the race can be won or lost!
All this time the Peloton is cruising through the beautiful scenery of the high Alps in the Jura and Franche Comte, a region little known for its wines and well-known for its cheeses. Comte, Morbier, Munster, Grand Cru Emmental, Upper Jura Blue and Mont D'Or are some of the best of the region, and the first two are pretty much world renowned classics. 
The wines of the Jura on the other hand can be a bit quirky, unchanging and unflinchingly secure in the own identity, and for that reason are sometimes a bit of a challenge for outsiders and new world wine lovers used to drinking fruit driven, full bodied plush styles of wine. Here the indigenous grape varieties that include Poulsard, Savignin and Trousseau are the stars,  with more familiar Pinot and Chardonnay playing fairly minor roles. The high Alpine environment at between 800 and 1300 feet above the Plaine de Bresse is continental, but colder than Burgunday far below and to the west. Even within this region, terroir plays a role as each wine growing area has very specific soils : Red and blue marls for the Poulsard ; Rich gravels and warm soils par excellence for the Trousseau ; Light marls for the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir ; Grey marls for the Savagnin. Vin Jaune, a wine made in an oxidative style, is one of the most popular (and idiosyncratic) wines from the region - almost sherry like in its nutty, rustic yet intriguingly delicious way, and there is sparking Cremant made here as well as a vin de liquer wine called Macvin.  Looking at our rather thin selection from the Jura and the mountainous east of France  (how can we not have Vin Jaune?) I have made a definite note to get out and taste a lot more wines from the region and beef up the selection! Better yet - ROAD TRIP!! Here are a couple of my favorite wines from the region:


2007 Domaine Rolet Nature du Jura Arbois Blanc $22
Region: Arbois (Jura,) France
Grapes: Chardonnay and Savagnin blend
Not too oxidative or rustic at all, this has a nutty, mineral stony character - piercing and focused on the palate with a long finish that sort of lingers and fades into almond nutty tones. A great example of a fresher style from this region. 


Apremont Vin de Savoie, Marc Portaz $16.50 - Unbelievably the Janquere grapes for this wine are grown on the rubbly rocky soil from a giant landslide from Mount Granier 750 years ago that buried a few hamlets and villages. Light, crisp, aromatic and refreshingly delicious this wine seems to capture the alpine air and stony soils of where it is grown. Aged sur lee it sometimes has a slight sparkle when drunk young.  Another delicate, lovely summer white!


Ceron de Bugey, Domaine Renardat Fachet $24 - One of my favorite wines in the world, seriously! It is a methode ancestral (same as Champagne methode) that is made from Poulsard and Gamay grapes with just a hint of sweetness. It has pale pinkish hue, lovely fine bubbly mousse, hints of fresh strawberry and raspberry, and wonderfully low alcohol - all making the a perfect summer afternoon aperitif or an after dinner palate refresher. We drink it on the beach at the end of the day!



Saturday, July 10, 2010

Stage 7 July 10th - From the Macon to the Mountains

Todays stage takes the Tour through one of the best regions in the world for affordable Chardonnay as it starts out from the town of Tournus, just north of Macon, and heads for its first taste of the mountains at Station Des Rousses, both towns being first time hosts to the Tour. The route starts out pretty flat, heading east over the Plaine de Bresse and then begins to climb up into the Monts de Jura encountering a few category 2 climbs to gear up the pack for the bigger stuff tomorrow. As well as passing not far from villages such a St. Veran, Macon, and Pouilly Fuisse, the Tour also skirts the region known for the best chickens in the world around the village of Bourg-en-Bresse. The Poulet de Bresse chickens are so good that, like wine and cheeses, they have their own Appellation Controllee and were the first livestock to get the honor in 1957. The breed of chicken, what they can eat, the local soil and conditions, and the size of the farms all play a role in their superb quality and is strictly controlled.
As for wine, this is Chardonnay country, and a source of some of my absolutely favorite everyday, versatile white wines. While much of the soil and sub-soils are similar to those in the Cote D'Or, here the geology is more jumbled and fractured, creating multiple exposures rather than the fairly neat north/south slopes found there. The climate is a little different too as it is further to the south, with all these factors combining to give the region its own unique characteristics. Compare the wines from the Macon with a Chablis from the cool climate and kimmerdgian soils of the north (or a $21 per kilo chicken from Bresse vs your local grocery store yellow dye special for that matter!) and you begin to see the natural role terroir has in determining the style and quality of what we eat and drink. Sure, wine making, processing and farming techniques can dilute or override the nuances of terroir, but to me the best wines in the world, whether a $16 Macon, or $200+ Grand Cru White Burgundy, are those that are a pure, natural experession of the vineyards, places, and grapes where they were raised.
In the Macon, the wines can range from a moderately crisp and fresh style of Chardonnay, with some minerality and apple fruit tones, to mid weight versions with a little more creaminess and what I always describe as a corn silk buttery note, with both of these styles seeing little or no oak. There are also some riper versions with a bit more heft, oak and sometimes even a whiff of a sweet clover honey, and there are a few producers who make wines from their best sites in Pouilly Fuisse that can give many a good Village or Premier Cru from the Cote D'Or a run for the money. Overall however, this region is about good solid wines at very fair prices. So today, roast or grill some chicken and some veggies, open up a bottle of wine from the Macon and enjoy the race! Here are a few of my favorites - to purchase any of the following wines click here to go to 56 Degree Wine Online and search on the producer.


2009 Domaine Daniel Pollier Saint Veran "En Messie" $16.50 - Dedication to the vine is priority one at the venerable, Domaine Daniel Pollier, and it is the mantra of the winery's namesake. Daniel left the Cooperative de Fuisse some dozen years ago to follow his longing to make wines of true varietal character that are site specific reflections of their soils. In addition, they had to be affordable. That trifecta is accomplished to great heights with the release of his gorgeous St. Veran "En Messie", a beautiful white from a superb single vineyard. Like taking a big bite out of a fresh picked apple from the orchard, the St. Veran en Messie delivers in every way. Mild creamy apply notes meld with hints of citrus flowing acidity and flowery aromas. A kiss of oak is so well woven into the wine making it harmonious and wonderfully crisp. This is great St. Veran!
Region: Saint Veran (Burgundy), France
Grape: 100% Chardonnay
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Anything chardonnay goes with!
ABV: 13%


2007 Domaine Daniel Pollier Pouilly Fuisse Vielles Vignes $22  - A fantastic value from Pouilly Fuisse, the Pollier version has the benefit of old vine material on its side. That is the reason that the wine possesses such lively, plump fruit with excellent concentration but also lively acid balance. As a result, the wine never feels heavy, but rather lush and refreshing. Plump mango, citrus oil, minerals and lemon creme notes fill out this beautiful wine with very good length. An outstanding value White Burgundy for sure...
Region: Pouilly Fuisse (Burgundy,) France
Grape: Chardonnay
Drink: Now - 2014



2008 Domaine Sainte Barbe Macon "L'Expression du Chardonnay" $19.50- ORGANIC / BIODYNAMIC -Certified organic and biodynamic viticulture in action, this small estate not only makes delicious whites from their vines in the Macon, but they also supply fruit to some of the best producers in the appellation. The use of older (2 year) oak and minimal lees stirring make the wine crisp and focused. Solid apple tones with hints of honeydew and texturally appealing, this is a wonderful Chardonnay for an equally wonderful price.
Region: Macon (Burgundy,) France
Grape: 100% Chardonnay
Farming: Certified Organic & Boidynamic
Terroir: Plateau of clay & limestone
Vinification: Aged on the lees, 8 months in stainless steel tanks
Drink: Now - 2012
Cuisine: Appetizers, seafood, fish terrines, white meats & chicken salad


2008 Philippe Forest-Auvigue Macon - Solutre-Pouilly "Cuvee Elevee en Futs" $23 - This wine is 100% Chardonnay from vineyard in the Maconnais, the southernmost part of the Burgundy region. Warmer than Chabils, with a different mix of soils including limestone and marl, it has a creamier, warmer fruit character, balance and with nice acidity ases like it comes from a warmer climate. Using a combination of stainless steel vinification and large oak casks for 3 months, this tiny producers accomplishes the goal of fruit intensity, while never allowing the wood to dominate the wine. Voluptuous in nature, this textured white from the tiny subzone of Solutre-Pouilly shows pear fruit, smoky notes and a bit of juicy apple in the finish. A fine White Burgundy to enjoy now through 2011.
Region: Burgundy
Grape: Chardonnay
Vinification: Stainless Stell Fermentation and 3 months in large oak casks
Drink: Now
Cuisine: Rich Fish Dishes, Poultry
ABV: 13%
 


2007 Jean Touzot Macon Villages $15 - This brilliant value priced White Burgundy is made out of golden fruit from 40 year old vines. Patiently barrel-fermented, this delicious white has a nose redolent of fresh apples and honeysuckle. In the mouth, the wine displays bright acid levels and beautiful pineapple and spice characters. Drink this wine from now until 2010.
Region: Burgundy
Grape: Chardonnay
Vinification: Barrel Fermented
Drink: Now
Cuisine:
ABV: 12.8%
Tomorrow - the Juar and les Alps!